The Paraben Paradox: Are These Cosmetic Ingredients Worth Preserving?
Contract Manufacturer G.S. Cosmeceutical USA Weighs in on the Controversy

May 18, 2010, Livermore, California – When a group of British researchers analyzed a small sample of breast cancer tumors and discovered parabens in 18 of the 20 samples, their 2004 published study set off a public outcry against the preservatives found commonly in topical cosmetics and body care products.
As a result of the study, manufacturers scrambled to reformulate their cosmetic products. Parabens, such as methylparaben, propylparaben, ethylparaben and butylparaben, as well as their iso derivatives, were stricken from INCI lists and replaced with paraben-free preservative systems. Companies parlaying a paraben-containing shampoo, conditioner, facial moisturizer or cleanser were black-listed by some cosmetic bloggers, and consumers scoured cosmetic labels for the “P” word.
Despite the implications of that Journal of Applied Toxicology study, many questions remain today. Are parabens really that hazardous to our health, or are these once-popular preservatives just getting a bad rap?

The Paraben Paradox
On one hand, the UK-based study demonstrated that parabens are capable of penetrating the skin and accumulating in the body’s tissue fully intact. In general, parabens are known to exert weak estrogen-like activity and may lead to gene expression that causes breast tumor cells to grow.
However, the British study did not examine potential paraben levels in normal tissue. And while it is true that parabens can mimic estrogen activity, a 1998 Toxicology and Applied Pharmacology study concluded that the most potent paraben, butylparaben, demonstrated 10,000- to 100,000-fold less activity than naturally occurring estradiol. Furthermore, a 2005 Critical Reviews in Toxicology report found that parabens — even at maximum daily exposure estimates — could not increase the risk associated with estrogenic chemicals.

Parabens and Alternative Preservatives
Since the 1920s, parabens have been used widely as highly effective preservative systems in cosmetics to maintain product shelf life and to protect consumers against microbial growth.
These broad-spectrum preservatives can be found in a wide variety of food and products. They are found naturally in blueberries and even the human bloodstream as a byproduct of the amino acid tyrosine.
In cosmetics, parabens are used at low levels – generally at less than 0.2%, though they are often used in combination and, as demonstrated by the British study, may bioaccumulate in the body.
With all of the questions surrounding parabens, more contract manufacturers such as Livermore, California-based G.S. Cosmeceutical USA, Inc., are now offering safe, alternative preservatives as an option to maintain product safety, stability and shelf life.
According to G.S. Cosmeceutical CEO and Chief Scientific Officer Gogi Sangha, several variables, including a product’s pH level and water content, help determine the preservative system best suited for any given product.
Where parabens are not an option, one good alternative is a preservative system that incorporates phenoxyethanol, a synthetic preservative with a chemical makeup based on a natural antibacterial chemical found in the sage plant.
Ethylhexylglycerin is another choice, though this synthetic compound also must be paired with another preservative to maintain a high enough efficacy of microbial protection.
In recent years, the organic and natural ingredient movement has sparked a demand for food-grade and organic preservatives. Grain alcohol, for instance, is available in an organic version and can work independently in a formulation. Grain alcohol is also accepted by many associations, including the Natural Products Association (NPA).
The only downside is the perception of the word “alcohol,” which many equate with drying of the skin, though this can be countered by increasing the moisturizing ingredients in the formula.
Sodium dehydroacetate, potassium sorbate and sodium benzoate are popular “food-grade” choices. While these popular “safe enough to eat” choices tell a great marketing story, it’s important that consumers and skincare companies know that they can be ineffective in some formulations, particularly water-based products where the potential for microbial growth is much higher than anhydrous formulations. In those cases, “natural” is not always best. While you might have a cream or serum that’s free of parabens, the product could pose even greater danger to a consumer’s health if it’s contaminated with microbial organisms!
To date, major U.S. health, regulatory and cancer organizations, including the FDA and the American Cancer Society, have not found enough evidence to warrant a ban on parabens.
Nevertheless, the preliminary findings offer some cause for concern, and most agree that larger studies are needed to elucidate the long-term implications of parabens as cosmetic preservatives and what effect they might have on our health.

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Sunscreens Set to Reflect New FDA Guidelines

G.S. Cosmeceutical Explains the Proposed Regulations and What They Mean to Manufacturers

Livermore, CA, April 30, 2010 — The dangers of outdoor UV exposure have been well-documented for years. But did you know that for the past 70 years, melanoma has been steadily on the rise among fair-skinned, indoor workers?

While the hazards of outdoor solar exposure have long been blamed for skin cancer and premature signs of aging, an FDA study may have us now taking cover in our homes and workplaces as new light is shed on the dangers of indoor UVA exposure.

In their research, Dianne Godar and colleagues from the FDA’s Center for Devices and Radiological Health noted that although indoor workers with lighter skin types typically receive 3 to 9 times less solar UV exposure than their outdoor counterparts, only the indoor group demonstrated an increased incidence of malignant skin cancer. As a result, the scientists theorize that the UVA light penetrating building windows may lead to mutations and a breakdown in Vitamin D(3), which would otherwise help protect the skin against melanoma.

“For years, we’ve known that UVB promotes sunburns, and we now know that UVA light is the ultraviolet wavelength responsible for the deeper skin damage that promotes premature signs of aging,” says Gogi Sangha, CEO and Chief Scientific Officer of G.S. Cosmeceutical USA, a San Francisco Bay Area-based contract manufacturer of anti-aging cosmeceuticals, broad-spectrum sunscreens, and bath and body products. “This new research only serves to further emphasize the importance of broad-spectrum sunscreens that protect against both UVA and UVB light.”

Still, only about one in five all-day moisturizers that advertise SPF protection actually guard against UVA rays, according to the Environmental Working Group (EWG), a non-profit environmental watchdog organization.

That could change, however, with an impending new set of FDA-proposed sunscreen guidelines, which, for the first time in history, will require manufacturers to disclose their products’ UVA protection levels.

The FDA 4-Star Rating System
Among the more significant changes the FDA plans to implement include a four-star rating system for UVA protection that would be based on both in vitro and in vivo tests and incorporate a measurement of photostability.

Manufacturers would be required to include the four-star rating on their sunscreen labels and would face new restrictions in what they can and cannot say on labels. For instance, the proposed guidelines would prohibit claims such as “chemical-free,” “waterproof,” “helps prevent skin damage,” or any SPF designation greater than 50.

SPF would no longer stand for “Sun Protection Factor” but, rather, “Sunburn Protection Factor” to clarify its use as a measurement of only UVB, the rays responsible for sunburns but not the premature signs of aging or skin cancer, which is mostly attributed to UVA.

According to Sangha, more cutting-edge ingredients are becoming available, enabling the development of true broad-spectrum sunscreens that go beyond UV protection to afford real anti-aging benefits. For instance, G.S. Cosmeceutical, a FDA-registered, cGMP (Good Manufacturing Practices)-compliant contract manufacturer authorized to produce OTC sunscreens, formulates with good-for-you skin ingredients like phytomelanin, a plant-based, antioxidant-rich melanin source derived from the date palm; HelioGuard™ from the red algae Porphyra umbilicalis; and photosomes with encapsulated DNA repair enzymes derived from plankton.

Because certain sea life, including the aforementioned plankton and algae, must adapt to a harsh environment of constant UV exposure, they possess a natural photoprotection that has real human applications. Photosomes, for example, have demonstrated an ability to improve sun-damaged skin in clinical research.

Vitamins C and E can also provide a natural boost to the photoprotection, Sangha says. Researchers from Duke University found a combination of 15% L-ascorbic acid and 1% α-tocopherol exhibited excellent protection against erythema and sunburn cell formation. While each vitamin demonstrated photoprotection independently, a combination demonstrated superior performance.

Covering the Sunscreen Spectrum
For the highest level of protection, choose a sunscreen that covers a wide range across the UVB (290-320 nanometers) and UVA (320-400 nm) wavelength spectrum. You’ll also want to make sure the formula is photostable, meaning it won’t break down readily upon exposure, and stable under normal conditions. At G.S. Cosmeceutical, sunscreens are tested via standardized accelerated tests for 2-3 months and verified over 1 1/2 to 3 years.
A good sunscreen will offer anti-aging protection as well. Following are a few commonly used sunscreen ingredients and their protective range in nanometers:

Avobenzone 340-375 nm
Mexoryl 290-400 nm
Octinoxate 280-320 nm
Oxybenzone 288-326 nm
Titanium Dioxide 290-340 nm
Zinc Oxide 290-380 nm

____________________________
How Sunscreen Savvy Are You?
Many misconceptions persist in sunscreen labeling today. Test your sunscreen savvy with this true/false quiz:

True or False: The higher the SPF, the more likely the sunscreen will protect against both UVA and UVB rays.
False! Many consumers today unwittingly purchase SPF 30 products, believing they’re receiving “broad-spectrum” UVA and UVB sun protection when they’re often receiving inadequate, if any, protection against UVA rays. That’s because the SPF (Sun Protection Factor) only measures UVB rays, a short-wave radiation that causes sunburn with wavelengths of 290-320 nanometers on the UV spectrum, whereas the longer UVA rays cause most premature skin aging and skin cancer. To get a true broad-spectrum sunscreen, look for a product with ingredients that specifically protect against UVA rays, such as avobenzone, zinc oxide and, to some extent, titanium dioxide.

True or False: A SPF 50 sunscreen will provide significantly more protection than an SPF 30.
False! A sunscreen rating higher than SPF 30 does not necessarily equate to significant higher protection. A SPF 30 confers about 97% protection against UVB rays, whereas a SPF 50 only nets you about 1 to 2 additional percentage points.

True or False: Only “waterproof” sunscreens will truly last all day and need no reapplication.
False! All sunscreens need to be reapplied. The simple acts of sweating and chafing of skin make reapplication of between 20 minutes and every two hours necessary.

True or False: Micronized and nano-scale zinc oxide and titanium dioxide offer strong UVA protection and do not pose a health hazard.
True! According to the EWG, repeated studies have found that these ingredients do not penetrate healthy skin when applied topically. Micronized and non-scale minerals enable formulators to create sunscreens with comprehensive protection and a less white topical appearance.

For the highest level of protection, consumers need to always complement sunscreen use with protective clothing, including a wide-brimmed hat, and limited exposure.

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For years, humans have been preoccupied with altering their skin tone. In the 1970s when Americans were baking in the sun to achieve a sun-bronzed glow (before the dangers of sun exposure were fully understood), skin whiteners were a burgeoning business in Asia.
Today, skin lighteners are sought worldwide for their ability to not only lighten darker complexions but also to control age-related hyperpigmentation.
Some estimates place the skin lightening market in Asia at a total worth of $7 billion, while, over the last year alone, sales have increased by 14% in non-European markets.
As the compendium of ingredients grows so too has the availability of safer, more effective, natural and science-based lightening options.

Pathways to Lighter Skin
Sun exposure and hormones are the two biggest causes of hyperpigmentation in skin, yet blemishes, wounds and rashes can also lead to abnormal discoloration, especially in darker skin tones.
Fortunately, we can offset unwanted skin pigmentation by targeting two principal pathways: By inhibiting the production of skin pigment, or melanin, and by rendering melanin and its precursors colorless. To inhibit melanin production, we must target the enzyme tyrosinase, which converts the amino acid phenylalanine into the precursors of melanin. Or, we can formulate with ingredients that compete against tyrosine to block the activity of the tyrosinase enzyme.
At G.S. Cosmeceutical USA in Livermore, CA, researchers are on the front lines of tapping new technologies that perform as well as mainstay lighteners like hydroquinone yet without the potential side effects.
A relatively new skin brightener, Chromabright™ has demonstrated significant brightening properties in in vivo clinical trials by inhibiting melanin production on par with hydroquinone and more effectively than the common skin brightening agents arbutin, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP) and kojic acid. Furthermore, unlike other depigmenting agents that can cause photoirritation, Chromabright can help prevent UV-induced skin damage.
G.S. Cosmeceutical has also experienced favorable results with a new colorless curcumin material, which, like Chromabright, has been found in some studies to be more efficacious than hydroquinone in inhibiting melanin. Research shows that this material can inhibit 80% of melanin production and scores higher on the antioxidant ORAC (Oxygen Radical Absorbance Capacity) scale than grapeseed extract and green tea.
In addition, some newer whitening peptides have demonstrated tyrosinase-inhibiting action by targeting the protein component of the tyrosinase enzyme and other constituents. β-White™, a biomimetic encapsulated whitening peptide, for instance, decreases proteins involved in the pigmentation process, thus inhibiting tyrosinase activity and melanin synthesis. An in vitro comparative study showed that β-White induced significant skin lightening effects on 23 Asian volunteers with at least one hyperpigmented spot after four weeks.
Other skin brightening/whitening agents continue to engage the attention of formulators for their natural approach to whitening and brightening the skin. Some commonly used ingredients include:

Arbutin: Popular in Japan for skin depigmentation, arbutin is an extract from the bearberry plant that inhibits tyrosinase activity and protects the skin against free radical damage.

Azelaic Acid: Found in wheat, rye and barley grains, azelaic acid has been shown to inhibit melanin, to treat skin discoloration and to fight acne. Some studies demonstrate that topical azelaic acid in 15% to 20% concentrations may be as effective as hydroquinone without the irritation.

Bearberry (Uva ursi): This plant leaf extract contains arbutin and methyl arbutin, both hydroquinone derivatives with skin-whitening properties.

Chinese Flower (Osmanthus fragrans): Used extensively in Asia as a flavoring for tea and as a fragrance, the Osmanthus fragrans flower is showing promise in reducing tyrosinase activity and melanin-formation in a dose-dependent manner. The flower’s high phenolic and flavonoid content also point to its potential as an antioxidant treatment.

Glutathione: This natural tripeptide targets pigmentation on two fronts via competitive binding with melanin’s color-forming precursors and by reducing the pigmenting potential of the melanin.

Hexylresorcinol: This crystalline phenol offers several anti-aging benefits, including the ability to target pathways in the skin that lead to hyperpigmentation. In vivo studies have demonstrated that hexylresorcinol has the same lightening effect as 2% hydroquinone over an eight-week period of time. It is also thought that hexylresorcinol can reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and increase UV protection.

Kojic Acid: By itself or combined with glycolic acid, kojic acid has demonstrated favorable results in inhibiting tyrosinase. While kojic acid can present stability challenges, G.S. Cosmeceutical has been successful in extending the typical shelf life of this material from less than three months to more than two years.

Licorice Root (Glycyrrhetinic acid): Used commonly by natural ingredients advocates, licorice root is an ancient skin remedy that, with the aid of recent research, has now entered the modern age as an effective skin whitener.

Mulberry (Morus bombycis): The root and bark extracts of the mulberry plant might also play a useful role in inhibiting the tyrosinase enzyme that converts tyrosine into melanin’s precursors. Mulberry contains arbutin, which inhibits melanin production.

Niacinamide (Vitamin B3): In addition to providing a safe whitening alternative, niacinamide, or Vitamin B3, is helpful in treating acne, increasing hydration and reducing fine wrinkles.

Vitamin C: This water-soluble antioxidant is a commonly used anti-aging ingredient, favored, among other uses, for its skin brightening properties. Common forms include pure L-ascorbic acid, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, and sodium or magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP).

Yellow Dock (Rumex crispus): Although the chemical constituents are unknown, yellow dock has proven its worth as a potent weapon in diminishing the effects of tyrosinase.

Skin formulations typically fare best when more than one ingredient is incorporated. For instance, we can use a tyrosinase inhibitor, a tyrosine competitor and an agent to render pigmented substances into non-pigmented forms. The addition of retinol can also boost efficacy in treating skin discolorations, and some research indicates that the alpha hydroxy acids lactic and glycolic acids can inhibit melanin production aside from their chief use as exfoliants.
In the future, the demand for effective skin whiteners is expected to only increase. Global Industry Analysts (GIA) predicts the lightening market to reach $10 billion by 2015 worldwide, a growth fueled partially by a growing ethnic population and more demand for whiteners among men. With new peptides and plant-based ingredients expanding the range of whitening options, formulators will be able to keep pace with this increasing consumer demand and continue to offer safer, more effective options.

Gurpreet “Gogi” Sangha is the CEO and Chief Scientific Officer of G.S. Cosmeceutical USA, Inc., a Livermore, CA-based contract manufacturer of anti-aging skin care, body care, hair care, natural and organic-based products, and OTC cosmeceuticals. G.S. Cosmeceutical provides R&D, manufacturing and warehousing services to physicians, cosmetic entrepreneurs, corporate manufacturers, beauty start-ups and leading professionals in the spa and beauty industry. The company will celebrate its 12th anniversary May 5, 2010.
For more information about G.S. Cosmeceutical USA, Inc., please visit www.gscos.com. You may also contact Marketing Manager Andrea Sercu at 925-583-1426 or andrea@gscos.com.

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Each year, a new ingredient emerges in the skin care industry, promising breakthrough benefits. Antioxidants came along to protect the skin from UV damage. Alpha hydroxy acids revolutionized with their resurfacing action. Peptides promised to smooth and repair, and, recently, stem cells surfaced to replace damaged and aging skin cells. But few skincare ingredients can promise the same proven and versatile benefits as retinoids (Vitamin A).
Now, upon the recent news of the death of Dr. Albert Kligman, the dermatologist who patented the retinoic acid drug, Retin-A and coined the term “cosmeceuticals,” a tribute to Vitamin A’s long-held role in skincare only seems fitting.
Often referred to as the “gold standard” for treating aging skin, Vitamin A and its retinoid family, address a wide range of conditions from oily skin and acne, wrinkles and collagen to age spots, skin tone, texture and hydration.
In fact, if you asked skincare practitioners to choose one ingredient that would address all the signs of UV damage, the No. 1 cause of aging in the skin, most would agree that retinol (without a prescription) and retinoic acid (tretinoin with a prescription) would top the list.
That is because Vitamin A resolves most skin conditions by promoting healthy cell differentiation. Vitamin A also has a small molecular structure capable of penetrating the underlayers of the skin where collagen and elastin are produced.
By itself, Vitamin A does not have any direct effect on the skin. Rather, specialized enzymes in the skin convert retinol and other biochemical derivatives of Vitamin A into retinoic acid, which interacts with receptors that bind to DNA. In turn, this binding action activates genes related to cell growth and cell cycle regulation, resulting in younger-acting, healthier skin cells.
But not all retinoids deliver the same results. If you were to line up the derivatives on a spectrum, it would look something like this:

Retinyl Palmitate (or Retinyl Acetate) → Retinol → Retinoic Acid

All eventually convert in the body to retinoic acid, the active form of Vitamin A, but the conversion process and potential irritation they cause in the skin can vary. As a rule, the ester (lipid-based) forms farthest to the left are the most stable and cause the least irritation. But they also take the longest to convert to retinoic acid, the bioactive form used by the skin, and therefore may be least effective. Conversely, the more active the form, such as a pharmaceutical retinoic acid at a 025%, .05% or 0.1% level, the Vitamin A is less stable and carries a higher potential for irritation.
Indeed, many skincare clients eagerly seek out the benefits Vitamin A retinols offer but all too soon shelve the cream or serum once the peeling, redness and irritation develops.
Fortunately, experts today have identified delivery systems that make stability, penetration, bioavailability and, yes, less irritation all possible. The R&D team at G.S. Cosmeceutical USA, Inc., in Livermore, CA, for instance, has perfected delivery systems that either entrap or encapsulate the more active forms of retinol in polymer systems that create a more stable, more active and more bioavailable form of Vitamin A with minimal irritation. These entrapment and encapsulation delivery systems also provide a time-release effect to feed the skin the benefits of the retinol over a prolonged period.
“The key is the delivery system, which stabilizes the formula while still working with in a free form to derive its maximum benefits,” says Irvaz Husic, Product Development Manager, at G.S. Cosmeceutical USA.
Retinol, a material that’s highly sensitive to light and air, requires precise working conditions to maintain its integrity. At G.S. Cosmeceutical, this custom contract manufacturer processes retinol under fluorescent yellow lights and nitrogen gas to protect the material from reacting. “We have special lights designed to help stabilize retinol in processing, which would otherwise oxidize faster under the normal white lights,” says Husic. “Using a blanketing process with nitrogen helps create less concentration of the oxygen and thus lowers the incidence of oxidation.”
Companion ingredients in the formulation, such as aloe vera, chamomile, bisabolol, Vitamin E and natural anti-inflammatories, also help offset irritation.
By perfecting the formulation with the precise ingredients and delivery system, the researchers at G.S. Cosmeceutical have been able to attain as high as 1% pure retinol formula where indicated, as well as 0.1% or less optimal concentration.
While others wait for the latest, greatest anti-aging topical to emerge, skincare professionals know that one of the best active topicals has actually existed for some time — retinol, still setting the gold standard in anti-aging skincare.

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By Gurpreet “Gogi” Sangha

CEO and Chief Scientific Officer of G.S. Cosmeceutical USA, Inc.

 In the Eighties, antioxidants heralded a new age in skincare with a host of free radical fighters that afforded broad-reaching protection against future signs of aging.

Alpha hydroxy acids came along to accelerate exfoliation and rejuvenate skin, while peptides emerged in the late Nineties to gain new ground with preparations that help repair damaged cells, relax wrinkles and build collagen.

Today, the arrival of plant stem cells in topical skincare carries a new mission: the ability to not only protect, prevent and repair aging skin cells but to actually replace lost and damaged cells with healthy new skin cells. Already, the applications are yielding dramatic results with newfound promise of revolutionizing the skincare industry in ways never before realized.

 An Apple a Day Keeps Signs of Aging Away

As we age, the turnover of human epidermal stem cells begins to slow. Over time, these critical cells function less efficiently. Hindered by a finite number of potential cell divisions, lost and dying cells start to outnumber fresh new cells, and, sooner than later, they culminate in signs of aging.

Plant stem cells, however, have the ability to divide over many generations and the unique capacity to stimulate and protect human stem cells. The results are a reduction in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, collagen loss and other common signs of aging.

The most common plant-derived stem cell used in skincare today is the Swiss Uttwiler Spätlauber apple. First cultivated in the 18^th century for its hardy, long-lasting fruit, this tannin-rich fruit offers a rich source of anti-aging activity.

By forming small wounds in “explants” of the stem cell tissue, scientists are able to stimulate large cell masses known as calluses, which contain the “unprogrammed” and undifferentiated cells of the plant. It is within these “blank canvases” that exciting, new applications in skincare yield promise, including the ability to increase the longevity of human skin cells and stimulate new ones.

In a Swiss in-house study published in the SOFW Journal in 2008¹, scientists showed that a 0.1% concentration of stem cells extracted from the Uttwiler Spätlauber apple stimulated the proliferation of human stem cells by 80%.

In followup experiments, the scientists irradiated a human stem cell sample with UV light. While nearly half of the cultured stem cells died when exposed to the UV light, the number of living cells grown in the culture containing the apple extract experienced only a small decrease.

Further Swiss studies showed that incubating fibroblast cells — the building blocks of collagen and other skin structural tissue proteins — in a 2% Uttwiler Spätlauber apple extract neutralized factors that lead to aging and, in some cases, actually reversed the process.

 Additional Plant Stem Cells Showing Promise

A wide range of plant stem cells, including extracts from edelweiss, echinacea, gotu kola and several lilac varietals, may offer significant future skincare applications.

For instance, edelweiss, an Alpine flower with a special affinity to survive extreme altitudes and solar radiation exposure, offers potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits. Edelweiss stem cells inhibit the enzymes that break down hyaluronic acid and collagen.

To illustrate, a cream with 1% edelweiss stem cells used twice daily reduced wrinkle depth of the eye contour area by 15% after 20 days of treatment in a clinical study involving 20 individuals.

The stem cells from echinacea, a botanical revered for its immune-strengthening properties, have also demonstrated an ability to inhibit collagenase, the enzyme that breaks down collagen, while stimulating the synthesis of new collagen in vitro.

Likewise, stem cells from the gotu kola plant, also known as tiger grass, have been shown to decrease the skin-degrading enzyme, hyaluronidase, by up to 90% and therefore retain the skin’s hyaluronic acid, a key extracellular matrix ingredient responsible for hydration and elasticity.

Other plant-derived stem cells may offer new applications in fighting acne. Syringa vulgaris L., otherwise known as common lilac, has been shown to inhibit 5α-reductase, an enzyme involved in sebum production, as well as decrease the pro-inflammatory chemokine IL-8. In clinical studies, a cream containing 1% of a patented plant stem cell extract reduced lesions in 29 acne patients by 40% in 30 days and showed a significant decrease in inflammation and melanin pigmentation.

By combining these plant-derived stem cells with other anti-aging actives, such as peptides, proteins and cell-active folic acid, we can rejuvenate skin cell DNA, the core center for all cell renewal processes, and literally give aging skin a fresh new start.

Gurpreet “Gogi” Sangha is the CEO and Chief Scientific Officer of G.S. Cosmeceutical USA, Inc., a Livermore, CA-based contract manufacturer of anti-aging skin care, body care, hair care, natural and organic-based products, and OTC cosmeceuticals. G.S. Cosmeceutical provides R&D, manufacturing and warehousing services to physicians, cosmetic entrepreneurs, corporate manufacturers, beauty start-ups and leading professionals in the spa and beauty industry.

For more information about G.S. Cosmeceutical USA, Inc., please visit www.gscos.com or call 925-583-1426.

 Source: Schmid D, Schurch P, Belser E, Zülli F. Plant Stem Extract for Cell Longevity of Skin and Hair. SOFW Journal. 2008;134(5):30-5.

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The Pivotal Role of Peptides in Skincare Manufacturing Today

G.S. Cosmeceutical USA, Inc.

Every decade has its particular “star technologies”; historic breakthroughs that can be credited for fueling the growth and advancement of our beloved and ever-evolving skincare industry. In the eighties, we heralded the birth of AHA’s to accelerate our collective, ever-slowing, cell renewal process. The popularity of fruity acids resounded globally, as skincare obsessive’s around the globe eagerly celebrated the arrival of younger, fresher-looking skin. In the nineties, industry enthusiasts coveted new, super-potent wrinkle-fighting ingredients which sourced a fresh breed of mega anti-oxidants, including Co-Q10 and Idebenone, a highly efficacious, skin regenerative, free radical warrior.

Alpha Hydroxy based products, popular in the eighties and nineties, remain very popular today.

By the late nineties and into the new millennium, our industry began to re-focus its attention and resources on two highly diverse fronts, one natural…the other synthetic. On the natural end of things, cosmetic formulators began touting the amazing preventative and restorative powers of mega-potent food and berry extracts: including Polyphenols (Resveratrol), Pomegranate Extract, Acai Berry, Blueberries and Mangosteen.

Simultaneously, cosmetic chemists positioned at the other end of the spectrum were busy raising venture capital to fuel a new promising synthetic category of anti-aging technologies known as “Peptides”. The Peptide Revolution, as many choose to call it, was officially ‘on’ from that day forward, generating billions of dollars in new growth and investment capital for cosmetic manufacturers, brand houses and ultimately, skincare influencers and trend-setters around the world.

The broad endorsement of Peptide Technology has been striking. It is not simply cosmetic researchers, formulators and beauty editors who have become modern evangelists for Peptides, it is Dermatologists as well.

Indeed, a recent article in CosmeticDesign.com confirms that these trained physicians…“see the potential for bioactive peptide ingredients in cosmetics as ‘immense’ due to their (Peptides) highly targeted and flexible nature”.¹

So, what are peptides exactly… and, why have so many new breakthrough products released over the past decade been formulated and manufactured to showcase these sophisticated anti-aging chemicals?

According to a study led by the Kline Group, a leading beauty industry research firm; “Peptides are anti-aging focused chemicals, synthetics, which claim to bring pharmaceutical strength technology to non-prescription products.” “In essence, they are pharma grade anti-aging ingredients packed into ”² The Kline Group believes “that the global anti-aging phenomenon has been the key driving force behind the enormous growth in the skin care segment in recent years, which in turn has led to the development of a plethora of innovative chemicals, including a virtual smorgasbord of Peptides for skincare innovators to choose from”.³

Others define Peptides in much more simplistic ways. Peptides function as messengers in the skin, allowing the epidermis and dermis to communicate more efficiently. This is important, because one of the key effects of aging is reduced communication within the skin, resulting in decreased collagen production and an aggregation of degraded elastin fibers. Decreased collagen production (less supportive, firming fibers), coupled with degraded elastin (diminished skin elasticity and flexibility) combine exponentially to produce classic visible signs of aging; including thinner skin, fine and deep wrinkles, sagging and flaccidity and overall loss of skin ‘tone’.

So, how do peptides work to correct these aging symptoms? There are twenty different amino acids in the human body and these acids can form in a variety of different combinations and sequences (just like the letters in words and sentences). When a chain of amino acids is over fifty acids long, it is normally called a protein, however when a chain contains less than 50 amino acids, it is considered a peptide. So, a peptide is really a ‘portion’, or a ‘building block’ of a protein. An abbreviated protein of sorts!

The great news is that these ‘mini or abbreviated proteins’ (Peptides) can be created in lab to be highly active, influential molecules, which can direct the cells in our body to take specific actions. While there are many different types of peptides, those that are used in skincare are synthetically engineered to enter the cells of the skin and remain intact. Once in the skin, they are able to communicate and direct the skin cells to behave in a certain way. For example, they can direct the cells to produce new healthy collagen and/or elastin fibers…causing the epidermis to appear thicker, smoother and younger! This helps to explain why Peptide Technology is ultra desirable and can command significantly higher prices, when embedded into your standard anti-aging formulations.

Current research indicates that the popularity of Peptides is due in part, to

the fact that these molecules can be “tinkered with” or “customized” fairly easily. For example, there are several Peptides out there that have been designed to ‘tell’ the skin to produce more collagen and hyaluronic acid. The most famous of the anti-aging Peptides is one with an INCI name of Palmitoyl Pentapeptide; but commonly known as Matrixyl. Originally developed for use on stretch marks, Matrixyl has also been used to promote more rapid healing of skin wounds. Manufacturers of formulas containing this Peptide claim statistically significant improvements in the reduction of deep wrinkles and the disappearance of small and fine wrinkles.

Then there are the peptides which are positioned as topical alternatives to Botox™. Consider Acetyl Hexapeptide (INCI), which many know as Argireline. By claiming to relax certain types of facial wrinkles by blocking the release of neurotransmitters, this trendy anti-aging Peptide has spearheaded the development of an entirely new category of Peptides

known as “Neuropeptides”. A clinical study published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science reported that when used at a 10% concentration level, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 actually reduced wrinkle depth by up to 30 percent—after 30 days of continuous use. And to top that off, there is clinical evidence that this small Peptide may even deter wrinkles from forming in the first place! Imagine that! While not Botox™ by any stretch of the imagination, one must admit that this designer chemical can be viewed as a formidable opponent to our most obvious sign of aging: The Wrinkle!

But, let’s not stop there… Excited chemists decided to offer Argireline a synergistic soul mate (of sorts) to partner with on tough anti-aging jobs.

Hence, the birth of Leuphasyl®, or Pentapeptide-3 (INCI). Working hand-in-peptide with Argireline, the two custom chemicals collaborate perfectly to reduce the depth of wrinkles on the face, especially in the forehead area and around the eyes, where we need it the most.

Speaking of necessity… collective need and strong global market demand remain the mothers of invention for the skincare industry. Concerns by millions of image conscious Baby Boomers and Post-Boomers, (as well as a solid segment of Generation X’ers seeking precautionary anti-aging treatments) led Cosmetic Researchers to design yet another highly specialized peptide known as Hexapeptide-10 (INCI). This breakthrough Peptide was engineered to improve cell adhesion and as a result, reduce the loss of skin firmness (sagging). Also known as ‘Serilesine’ this Peptide multi-tasks effectively, to concurrently reduce dryness and yellowing of skin tone.

Peptide research is advancing at breathtaking speed. Few doubt that these highly specialized synthetic proteins will cease to be the ‘it factor’ of cosmetic compounding any time soon. Industry insiders predict that a virtual parade of these lab-engineered genies will continue to inspire, enrich an influence the thinking and methodologies of skincare manufacturers for decades to come.

Consider the possibilities… While today, cutting-edge, anti-wrinkle Peptides like (Syn®-Ake) are lab-engineered to mimic the effects of Viper Snakes… the Peptides of the future could have even broader and considerably more inventive applications.

In fact, researchers from the Lawrence Berkeley National Laboratory are currently in the early stages of work on a new Peptide-based technology to replace dermal filler injections and cosmetic surgery procedures. They believe that an injectable peptide could be created to induce growth of fat under the skin. This would allow us to literally plump-up our own aging skin with the body’s own fat, indigenous to the skin itself!⁴

And what, you may ask; does the scientific community really think about this explosive technology that has gracefully commandeered centre stage over the past decade?

At G.S. Cosmeceutical, a San Francisco Bay Area custom-contract- manufacturer of skincare and other cosmeceutical products, Owner and Chief Science Officer Gogi Sangha weighs in on the subject, pondering the timeless connection and inherent synergism between beauty and science, stating:

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1. CosmeticDesign.com: Katie Bird, March 24, 2009 Issue
2. CosmeticDesign.com; Simon Pittman, June 17, 2009 Issue
3. CosmeticDesign.com; Simon Pittman, June 17, 2009 Issue
4. CosmeticDesign.com; Katie Bird, March 4, 2009 Issue

Filed under: Contract Manufacturing, Cosmeceutical Manufacturing, Cosmetic Chemistry and Formulation, Cosmetics, Health and Wellness, OTC Drug Manufacturing, Peptides, Personal Care Products, Skincare Technology, Uncategorized | Comments Off

IN YOUR SPA OR MEDICAL PRACTICE

By VP of Global Sales and Marketing, G.S. Cosmeceutical USA, Inc.

Can you recall that simple catch phrase…the one about “working smarter, not harder”?While you may not have heard this folksy truism much during Med School, your MBA program or your tenure at the Esthetics’s Academy, this phrase has taken on new meaning for many financially savvy health care professionals, spa owners and aesthetic service providers, eager to become cash positive in today’s recessed economic environment of managed health care and third-party reimbursement.

In fact, astute Physicians, Spa Owners and Estheticians have discovered a way to work smarter and grow faster, by dispensing their own proprietary cosmeceuticals and OTC products, on-site.

Statistics indicate that the availability of high-end, nicely packaged cosmeceuticals complementing aesthetic or dermatologic treatments offered at a spa or medical facility can produce significant increases in profits, as well as unexpected boost to the business’s financial immune system.

Extend your professional services and profits by sending your patients home with custom formulated skincare products.

And, if these upscale skincare products are priced correctly, marketed aggressively, explained clearly and recommended consistently by you and your staff, they may truly prove to be the real ‘pot of gold’ at the end of the rainbow! Indeed, the magnetic allure of a well-branded skincare (or OTC product line) that is known to have been conceived and developed by you, can be capable of attracting a considerable amount of new foot traffic, successful in providing those already loyal to you a compelling reason to return more often…. and highly persuasive in providing a reason for your fans to spend more (than before) during each visit.

Now if you are an intuitive retailer at heart, you’ll appreciate the enormous value of head count acquisition, average ticket size and frequency of return-rate. And…let’s not allow semantics to get in the way. Whether you call the object-of-your-care a “patient”, “client”, “guest” or “customer”, you know that the key to your medical practice or spa remaining financially healthy is based on your ability to attract new folks and retain the fans you have in your client base.. By offering your very own line of products… exclusive, elegant, innovative, efficacious products… you’ll do just that! In fact, the benefits and financial rewards that your own exclusive product line can provide will grow exponentially over time! Once you and your staff become true believers and product evangelists… you’ll experience incremental revenue streams and profits that were once unimaginable. And remember, the best part of this whole scenario is that “retail is, and always will be, a cash-based business!”

In fact, tens of thousands of medical and aesthetic professionals understand the economic potential that comes with the sales and distribution of products on-site, on-line or through third party distribution channels, and have already gone about setting up their own thriving skin care, baby care, hair care or pet care businesses. Some have turned to Private Label Manufacturers to provide them with stock (in-house) formulations and packaging, in an effort to save on time, as well as formulation, packaging and manufacturing costs.

But for just a bit more of an investment in time, money and effort, you can have your products made and formulated from scratch, to meet your own exact standards, preferences and expectations. Perhaps that is why more physicians and skincare entrepreneurs are now hiring “custom” contract manufacturers to develop truly unique and proprietary products for them. One such custom, contract manufacturer is G.S. Cosmeceutical USA, Inc., a moderately-sized, FDA-certified GMP Manufacturer of cosmeceuticals and OTC’s (Over-The-Counter Drug Products) which was founded by Organic Chemist and Cosmetic Researcher, Gogi Sangha.

“GSC” is known for providing Dermatologists, Physicians, Estheticians, Cosmetic Entrepreneurs and Spa Proprietors a means by which to manifest their skin care and sun care dreams.

Located in the beautiful San Francisco Bay Area, the GSC Formulation Team begins each project, (figuratively) with a clean slate. They first seek to understand the client’s specific and unique product vision. With the end in mind, the team then cooks up a recipe of carefully selected raw materials, merged with innovative technologies and precisely chosen botanicals and actives, to meet the client’s proprietary specs. The results deliver one-of-a-kind custom skin care, sun care, hair care or baby care formulas which are fresh and utterly distinct.

Which takes us back full circle to that simple, but brilliant concept that we started with: “Working Smarter, Not Harder”— in an effort to forge ahead financially now and in years to come. But, “working smarter” is a strategy that will require hard work! It will demand that you have the mental fortitude, strength, courage and willingness to take new steps and engage in actions that will move you off of the proverbial practice plateau or out from under the business depression/regression mind-set, into a stage of innovation. You’ll need to try something new, in order to garner new results. So, what are you waiting for? Join the gold rush; infuse cash back into your spa business or practice by giving your “fans” the products they are already clamoring for. For, if not YOU, then WHO will give them what they really want?

Filed under: Contract Manufacturing, Cosmeceutical Manufacturing, Cosmetics, Health and Wellness, OTC Drug Manufacturing, Personal Care Products, Retail Skincare, SPF's and Sun Care Products, Skincare Technology | Comments Off

Livermore, CA (PRWEB) May 8, 2009 — G.S. COSMECEUTICAL USA, Inc. held a festive ‘Cinco de Mayo’ anniversary luncheon, marking the Livermore, California based contract manufacturer’s eleventh year in business.

We’re gaining the opportunity to work with a variety of clients that surpasses anything we’ve seen to date.

At the celebratory gathering attended by all company employees, CEO and Founder Gogi Sangha reflected on the company’s consistent twenty-plus percent growth rate since it’s founding in 1998. “We are especially proud of the high level of customer loyalty we have earned over the years,” cited Sangha, who added: “Ninety-five percent of G.S. COSMECEUTICAL’s existing customers continue to place on-going orders with the company, indicating that we are doing many things right to consistently please and delight our customers.”

Recently, G.S. COSMECEUTICAL launched a company-wide expansion program designed to heighten the company’s profile, increase market-share, strengthen client services and enhance cGMP quality processes and systems. While industry competitors have been reducing their spend on new projects and investments, G.S. COSMECEUTICAL has taken an aggressive stand directed at growth and solidification of the company’s niche in the personal care contract manufacturing market. Over the past five months, the company has strategically increased headcount with the addition of four new, key staff positions, including V.P. of Global Sales and Marketing and Product Development Manager.

In addition, GSC’’s executive team made a tactical decision to expand the company’s reach both nationally and abroad, through an enhanced web presence and targeted, multi-dimensional marketing campaigns. Investments have also been made in new capital equipment to streamline quality processes and enhance production line efficiencies.

As “GSC” celebrates the dawn of twelve years in operation, CEO Gogi Sangha claims that the company is already seeing the results of their spring 2009 “expansion initiative”. “We are attracting more customers than ever before, as well as a broader range of prospects.” “From Aesthetic Physicians, Pediatricians and Dermatologists…to large Pharma Companies and national cosmetic brands” says Gogi Sangha, “we’re gaining the opportunity to work with a variety of clients that surpasses anything we’ve seen to date.” Finally, Sangha proudly points out that the company has also managed to attract “hip, young entrepreneurs” with dreams of brand ownership.” “There is absolutely no doubt that we are winning the hearts and minds of a broader audience …and that’s truly something to celebrate about!”

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Sun, Light and Melanoma

How Technology is Gaining Ground against Skin Cancer

(By Vice President of Global Sales and Marketing, G.S. COSMECEUTICAL USA, Inc.)

Years ago M.A.D.D. (Mothers Against Drunk Driving) made a significant impact in educating the public against the dangers of drunk driving. This merry month of May we’re reminded of yet another potentially tragic health menace warranting an equally fierce battle on its behalf. Amazingly, after decades of safe sun education and ominous Skin Cancer warnings by media, government, the Skin Cancer Foundation and American Medical Association, “Melanoma” still remains the most deadly of all Skin Cancers. According to the Skin Cancer Foundation website today, one out of five of us can expect to develop Skin Cancer in our lifetime! And, more than twenty Americans currently die on a daily basis from Skin Cancer; the majority of which are still diagnosed as Melanoma. In fact, one person continues to die from Melanoma almost every hour (or every 62 minutes, to be exact!). And women of America, stand up and take note…statistics document that the female gender (aged 39 and under) has a higher probability of developing Melanoma than any other cancer except breast cancer. Now that’s a small factoid with a big message. Wouldn’t you agree?

The truth is, I’ve been acutely aware of the dangers of UV light exposure; burning, pre-mature aging, DNA damage and Skin Cancer, for many decades. In fact, for fifteen years I spoke to thousands of retail Beauty Consultants weekly, preaching the gospel of sun protection and tanning abstinence, as a Director of Education for a number of cosmetic companies. But, this year seemed different. This year the subject felt more threatening…more dangerous…more likely to affect those that I loved and cared about, in a very real way.

As soon as the month of May rolled around (Coined “Melanoma Month” by the Skin Cancer Foundation), I began feeling an intense need to investigate the status of the war against this long-time opponent. What had we, (“MOBI”— Members of the Beauty Industry) — the undisputed best advocates in the fight against this disease— been doing in recent years to wage war on this serious and life-threatening adversary?

Okay, I’ll admit that perhaps my earnest quest had a tiny bit to do with the fact that I recently accepted a position with a leading Contract Cosmeceutical Manufacturer (G.S. COSMECEUTICAL USA, Inc.); a GMP facility known for it’s ability to formulate and manufacture a stunning array of custom cosmeceuticals and OTC’s, including Sun-Care and SPF-Based Products. Add to this, the fact that I am a very curious individual by nature, and you get the picture. I simply needed to know what top OTC Manufacturers (like “GSC”) had been working on recently, to advance the cause against this vile health threat. I began researching the subject by speaking with my super-talented team of GSC colleagues and formulators, who have successfully formulated and manufactured a number of ground-breaking SPF technologies available on the market today. My goal was to learn about specific gains in the technology war being waged against UV light damage and associated Skin Cancer risks. Here is what I learned:

According to GSC’s Product and Process Manager, Irvaz Husic, sunscreen formulas and ingredients have been evolving and advancing, qualitatively and quantitatively, literally at the speed of light. “Interestingly,” Irvaz points out, “the biggest changes have to do with the shift from chemical-based to natural-based screens”. Traditional, irritating, greasy and often tacky-feeling chemical-based formulas (formulated with ingredients meant to absorb harmful UV rays) have given way to newer, smoother, micro-pulverized natural screens made with Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide (meant to reflect and refract damaging UV light away from the skin). What a relief, because the older chemical-based sunscreen formulas had become saddled with so much cynicism that it was difficult to separate their truly positive attributes from the negative allegations out there. These included accusations that the chemical screens contained carcinogenic raw materials, demonstrated photo-instability… and had a tendency to “over-heat” the skin. Conversely, the new natural, micronized oxides received adoration and praise, and the highest of marks regarding their efficacy, photo-stability and perceived “cooling” effect on the skin. In fact, highly experienced cosmetic scientists, including my company’s CEO and Founder, Gogi Sangha, all rave about the “dispersion factor” that makes these new micronized oxides so attractive to use in SPF formulations. According to Gogi, new cosmetic emulsions which incorporate dispersed Titanium and Zinc Oxides result in better blended SPF formulations, capable of providing heightened levels of UV light protection. SCORE ONE against the ravages of Skin Cancer!

And today, no one is considered too young to benefit from protection against this serious threat to our well-being and health. As a result, my GSC Team is working on behalf of vigilant Pediatricians, Physicians, Veterinarians and Skin-Care Houses to develop sun care for babies, pets and even infants! By formulating with natural sunscreen ingredients… natural/organic or food-grade preservatives, gentle botanical extracts and state-of-the-art anti-oxidants, viable formulations are developed that allow us to protect our most cherished and vulnerable little ones. An extraordinarily important mission according to the American Cancer Society, given that three or more blistering sunburns during childhood can increase the risk of developing Melanoma. SCORE TWO against Melanoma!

Then there’s the dreaded melanoma “vacation syndrome” to consider. According to a study by the Journal of Investigative Dermatology referenced on the Skin Cancer Foundation’s website: “Caucasian English Women who vacation in hot countries have seventy-four percent more moles than those who have never vacationed in tropical climates.” Dr. Perry Robins, President of the Skin Cancer Foundation summarizes the vacation threat with this simple statement, saying: “This study supports the hypothesis that intense, intermittent sun exposure plays an important role in the development of Melanoma.”

So, what’s a health-minded girl or guy to do in 2009, if they really, really need a vacation and “the islands” are their favorite R&R destination? Well, first, make certain you are taking a broad-spectrum sun-screen with you; one that will actually protect from both UVA and UVB rays. SPF monograph testing in the lab results in a rating for UVB level protection only, and as a result, is the SPF reflected often on product labels. However, some concerned OTC manufacturers make a point to list UVA protection on their labels. Thankfully, the FDA is currently working on new sun care packaging regulations that will help make SPF labeling easier to understand and much more transparent! Score three against our deadly foe!

Next, re-application and usage compliance are both still very important factors, but are no longer quite as big a threat to our UV protection levels, thanks to the latest technological advances in SPF research and development. Medical experts remind us to reapply a sunscreen every two hours, or after periods of swimming or profuse sweating (exercise). However, the big advantage to the newest high-tech, mineral-based SPF formulas is that they tend to be more naturally resistant to water and perspiration. Add to that the ability of sophisticated OTC manufacturers like G.S. COSMECEUTICAL USA, Inc., to develop technologies which can significantly extend the stability of key sun protection ingredients in an SPF formula! So, while safety and protection continue to be our front and center concerns; the failure to re-apply issue has become a bit less worrisome for those of us concerned about sabotaging our own best efforts. Score four against the big “M”.

Speaking of putting our best feet forward in the fight against Melanoma… one of the final frontiers that we have yet to conquer seems to be the human mind. It makes sense that our subconscious beliefs about tanning and the dangers related to UV light exposure, will certainly dictate the scope of our actions and efforts to protect ourselves from Skin Cancer. Gogi Sangha, our Chief Scientific Officer and long-time Master Formulator, suggests a simple paradigm shift for sunscreen. “We have become much more astute about the role that environment plays in our overall health”. “We have developed good eating habits; working hard to include the four food groups into our daily diets.” “So”, asks Gogi, “why not take it to the next step by focusing on five daily food groups, making sunscreen the fifth dietary component for your skin?”

Gogi makes a great point. All it would take to get it done would be a little change in the way we think about our daily dietary rituals. Score five against this dreaded disease!

As May moves along toward June and my investigative project draws to a close, I can see that there is no doubt we are gaining ground in the war against UV light, Melanoma and other Skin Cancers. Clearly, technology is marching forward; at times in giant leaps, at others… in baby steps. I am heartened by what I’ve learned, and have no doubts that as our best scientific minds find ways to conquer space and energy; they will also succeed in ultimately eradicating melanoma. I’m also incredibly proud to see just how far we (as an industry) have come in providing the public with sun protection solutions that really work. And yes, my GSC colleagues in their white lab coats have earned a new level of respect and admiration from me, for the many ways in which they work to advance the cause of sun protection and human longevity, one great sunscreen product at a time.

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