June 22, 2010, Livermore, California – You might liken the state of the male grooming category to the women’s category in the early 1900s, when the typical beauty regimen consisted of soap and cold cream. When it comes to grooming habits, men are slow-evolving creatures who largely prefer simple regimens — no more than 3 steps, thank you — and products that perform the basic necessities: cleanse, moisturize, maybe prep their beard for a shave and, for the really adventurous, something to impede hair loss.
Yet as the industry continues to widen its offerings in hair care, skin care, body care and shaving, today’s average male consumer is becoming increasingly hip to new grooming rituals.
With global sales of male skin, hair and body care products topping nearly $27 billion last year*, Unilever, L’Oreal, Beiersdorf AG and Procter & Gamble’s Gillette are all stepping up to plate in the male category. Gillette is making a play on its guy-friendly brand name as it launches the new ProSeries line, including a pre-shave thermal scrub, which the company compares to a hot towel service at the barber shop; a cooling after-shave moisturizer; a face wash for sensitive skin; and a UV protectant/moisturizer.
Other mass brands like Nivea for Men and Axe are targeting the male consumer with demo-specific lines at the grocery store and drugstore level, while more mid- to high-end lines are delivering on what former American Crew president John Mulgrew calls “affordable luxury.”
“Today’s baby boomer represents the aging male population and is more consumed and educated about his appearance,” says Mulgrew, who is now the managing director of The Grooming Lounge, a small chain of Washington D.C.-based, high-end barbering salons with a growing line of skin and hair care products.
“About 15 years ago, it was taboo for a guy to say to his buddies that he uses moisturizer, but today, surprisingly, there’s so much information out about UV rays and melanoma, it’s OK to say that. Although, I don’t know that it’s yet OK for them to admit they use an eye cream!” he says.
Gary Whitfield, owner of the Australian-based men’s line, Himself27, agrees, noting that men are still “firefighters” when it comes to buying grooming products. They purchase out of need and to put out a specific problem, like irritation from shaving. “I think at the moment, men are interested in problem-solving products. In the longer term, premium ‘anti-age’ product will do well as the average guy becomes more educated to the benefits of regular skin care,” Whitfield says.
Some of the newer offerings for men include hair enhancement serums formulated with technologically advanced peptides that stop hair loss and encourage new growth, says Gogi Sangha, CEO and Chief Scientific Officer of G.S. Cosmeceutical USA. This Bay Area-based contract manufacturer of anti-aging cosmeceuticals and OTC skincare has also formulated anti-aging serums, antioxidant-rich eye treatments and oil control treatments specifically geared to the male consumer.

Speaking the Same Language
Research shows that men require a vastly different marketing approach than women. They like straightforward language that clearly outlines the product’s function and main benefit. They don’t want fluff — just simple, no-nonsense talk. “When you label products like Taffy and Putty, I don’t think men get it,” says Mulgrew, who cites the names of his two new products, Some Hair Gel and Some Hair Pomade, as examples of a more direct approach.

The Royal Loyal
Unlike their “beauty junkie” counterparts, men will gladly concede more than their share of room on the bathroom counter with just a few SKUs taking up space in their daily grooming ritual. Yet, men also comprise some of the most loyal customers when it comes to buying retail products at the salon level. Experience shows that they are more likely to follow a hairstylist’s recommendation to buy a particular home-care product, and they will continue to use that product as long as it’s being offered. With worldwide sales up approximately 40% over six years ago, it looks as if the male personal grooming category may just hit a double play this year with no strikes in an otherwise recessionary economy.

*Source: Euromonitor International Plc.

Filed under: Contract Manufacturing, Cosmeceutical Manufacturing, Cosmetics, Health and Wellness, Personal Care Products, Retail Skincare, Skincare Technology