August 24, 2010 - As a skincare company preparing to launch a new product, the selection of a contract manufacturer can present one of the most daunting tasks in the product development process. .All choices may look good on paper, but the results can vary widely — sometimes at great risk and expense to the unsuspecting startup.

Whereas a good contract manufacturer will help ensure the timely launch of a quality product formulated with cutting-edge ingredients, the wrong decision can result in a product line lacking consumer appeal or, worse, one that is unstable and contaminated.

To be sure your product launch runs smoothly and exceeds expectations, look for these characteristics in a skincare contract manufacturer:

FDA-Registered, cGMP-Compliant. The recent introduction of the Safe Cosmetics Act of 2010 will present new challenges to some skincare contract manufacturers who are not prepared to weather the changes. This critical new legislation proposes full ingredient disclosure, data sharing and, most importantly, closer FDA control over the cosmetics industry.

To be sure you’re in capable hands, look for an FDA-registered, cGMP-compliant contract manufacturer. Only these facilities are required to ascribe to federally regulated “Good Manufacturing Practices” as set forth by the FDA. The “c” before the GMP symbolizes “current,” meaning cGMP-compliant contract manufacturers stay abreast of the latest changes in manufacturing and quality processes and must pass the most current, stringent FDA audits to remain compliant.

GMP facilities are required to keep detailed logs of all raw materials and packaging components used during the manufacturing process. Under this process, manufacturers must quarantine and test incoming materials and packaging components for quality; abide by Standard Operating Procedures (SOPs) for consistency; and staff each procedure with two employees to attain the highest level of accuracy when weighing materials and conducting other important tasks.

In addition, GMP facilities write detailed step-by-step procedures; follow written procedures to prevent contamination; document work for compliance and traceability; and protect products against contamination by making cleanliness a daily ritual in the manufacturing plant.

Stays Current on Emerging Technologies. If your contract manufacturer is still pushing AHAs as the latest, greatest anti-aging technology, then you’re most likely experiencing a disconnect between the trends of today’s skincare market and what your R&D department is stirring up in the lab. A good contract manufacturer will maintain constant communication with suppliers and industry organizations to stay on top of the latest developments in raw materials and treatment of skin conditions.

Most importantly, the contract manufacturer must be willing to share this information with its current and prospective clients to allow brand developers the opportunity to seize the most current technology and bring it to market. G.S. Cosmeceutical USA, Inc., of Livermore, CA, for instance, shares the latest data on brighteners, wrinkle relaxers, peptides and anti-aging topicals with a wide array of clientele, ranging from spa startups and physicians to pharmaceutical corporations looking to roll out a new OTC line.

Financially Stable. A good contract manufacturer is financially stable and willing to expand based on client requirements. The manufacturer should have a growth plan in place and sustain growth by providing the latest equipment, space and training as needed.

Won’t Compete with Your Product Line. Many contract manufacturers sport a private label division in addition to their custom contract manufacturing operation. While the manufacturer may purport to keep these two divisions separate, many custom clients, unfortunately, find their concepts ending up as a private label product — even after they signed a confidentiality disclosure agreement. To be sure, look for a contract manufacturer who only formulates custom products for its clients — not its catalog — and maintains a track record for the highest level of client retention and integrity.

Provides Marketing Support. Most contract manufacturers stick to the science of product formulation and manufacturing, leaving the marketing of the product to the brand. While traditional marketing tasks, such as advertising and press releases, are indeed typically handled by the brand, a well-rounded contract manufacturer will help you develop your marketing “story” by tailoring ingredients to your individual concept. Some contract manufacturers, such as G.S. Cosmeceutical, will even help finesse your label copy, source packaging and provide other marketing tasks as a comprehensive service.

In today’s competitive skincare market, the selection of a contract manufacturer is more important than ever. Learn all of your options and take the time to develop a relationship with the chemists and support staff members who will help guide your product along its journey to success.

About G.S. Cosmeceutical USA, Inc.
G.S. Cosmeceutical USA, Inc. is a privately-owned contract manufacturing company. Headquartered in Livermore, California, the company is a leader in providing R&D, manufacturing and warehousing services to physicians, cosmetic entrepreneurs, corporate manufacturers, beauty start-ups and leading professionals in the spa and beauty industry. The company formulates across a broad range of categories, including anti-aging skincare, body care and hair care, organic- and natural-based products, paraben-free cosmetics and over-the-counter (OTC) cosmeceutical products.
For additional information on the release, please contact Andrea Sercu, Marketing Manager, at G.S. Cosmeceutical USA, Inc. at andrea@gscos.com or by calling 925-583-1426.

A to Zinc Skin Nutrients

COQ10: With age, the body’s natural COQ10 levels start to deplete. UV exposure, stress and poor diet can all contribute to lower stores of this critical energy source. COQ10 produces ATP biological energy inside the cells, enabling cells to grow and divide into healthy new cells. Without COQ10, the body cannot produce sufficient levels of collagen and elastin.
Oral supplements can help skin improve on all of these levels as well as aid weight management. Topically, you can find COQ10 (also known as ubiquinone) in many skincare products. It’s important to note that the level of COQ10 will play a determining role in its efficacy.

Essential Fatty Acids: The typical consumer gets more than their fair share of omega-6 fatty acids through foods like baked goods and potato chips, but these foods lack the vital essential omega 3 fatty acids, which possess natural anti-inflammatory properties and help repair and hydrate skin. Supplements, including fish oil capsules (preferably wild-harvested), borage and evening primrose oils, and foods like flaxseed, salmon and mackerel offer good sources of omega-3 oils. A study published in the March 2009 issue of the British Journal of Nutrition reported that both flax and borage oil increased hydration while reducing inflammation and sensitivity after 12 weeks of consumption.
Topically, evening primrose and borage oils can also help keep skin hydrated while soothing inflammation and reducing redness associated with dermatitis, rosacea and eczema.

Silica: This trace mineral may be only needed in small amounts, but silica’s benefits stretch far and wide to maintain skin elasticity and heal wounds. You can obtain silica from foods, such as leeks, green beans, strawberries, cucumber and mango. Topically, silica is often added to skin formulations to improve the viscosity, texture and feel of a product.

Vitamin A: One of the most potent anti-aging actives available, Vitamin A addresses a wide range of conditions, including acne, wrinkles, collagen, hyperpigmentation and dry skin. Most significantly, Vitamin A ensures proper cell turnover and repairs and maintains the skin.
Chili peppers, carrots, apricots, sweet potatoes, spinach and cantaloupe all make great Vitamin A-rich food sources, while retinol (without a prescription) and retinoic acid (Tretinoin with a prescription) are the preferred topical forms, says G.S. Cosmeceutical’s Sangha. Other retinoic derivatives include retinyl palmitate, or retinyl acetate, and retinaldehyde. While stable, some of these retinoids take a long time to convert to the bioactive retinoic acid form and may be rendered useless to the skin. For that reason, retinol is the most bioavailable form of topical Vitamin A, says Sangha, an expert in retinol product manufacturing.

Vitamin B Complex: Biotin and niacin offer the most significant skin benefits among the B vitamins. Biotin forms the very basis of skin, nail and hair cells and without the correct amounts, dermatitis and hair loss can result even with a mild deficiency. Bananas, eggs, oatmeal and rice provide a ready supply of biotin.
Topical niacinamide has also gained much attention over the years for its ability to hydrate the skin and give skin an immediate glow. By retaining moisture, niacinamide enables skin to appear plumper and younger in as little as six days. Niacinamide also has anti-inflammatory, circulatory and antioxidant properties and can even help lighten an uneven skin tone. In a 12-week, double-blind, placebo-controlled study of 50 women, researchers found that 5% topical niacinamide improved fine lines and wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, skin texture and red blotchiness.

Vitamin C: Vitamin C benefits skin on many levels from brightening and helping generate collagen to reducing free radical damage. In clinical trials, topical Vitamin C, especially when combined with Vitamin E, demonstrated an ability to offer “appreciable photoprotection” against UV damage, according to Duke University researchers. And a 2005 study published in The Journal of Investigative Dermatology found that people who consume Vitamins C and E reduce their sunburns from UVB exposure and mitigate those factors linked to DNA damage within skin cells.
Vitamin C-rich foods include bell peppers, guava, broccoli, citrus fruits, kiwi and leafy greens. Topically, Vitamin C is highly unstable and requires formulary expertise to remain stable and absorbent for optimal efficacy.
G.S. Cosmeceutical has achieved excellent results working with Vitamin C forms, including pure L-ascorbic acid; esters such as magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, a stable, oil-soluble form with excellent absorption and shelf-life properties.

Vitamin E: An oil-soluble vitamin, Vitamin E can reduce fines lines and wrinkles, hydrate dry or rough skin and help protect against UV damage. This potent antioxidant is best taken orally in the form of natural tocopherol supplements at 400 mg daily or in foods, such as wheat germ oil, sunflower seeds, safflower and sunflower oils, almonds, olives, spinach, tomatoes and avocados. Topically, Vitamin E can help prevent the breakdown of collagen and elastin due to free radicals and protect against sun damage. In skincare products, look for natural d-alpha tocopherol or tocopheryl acetate to provide the best benefits.

Zinc: This mineral plays an important role in skin health, particularly for those prone to acne breakouts. Oral supplements or foods rich in zinc sulfate and zinc gluconate can help regulate sebum (oil) production and proper immune function and may interact with the hormones that lead to acne. Zinc-rich foods include fresh oysters, pumpkin seeds, ginger, Brazil nuts, oats, eggs and pecans.
Topically, you’ll find zinc oxide in mineral sunblocks to protect against UV light. However, neither this form of zinc nor the zinc sulfate and zinc gluconate forms have demonstrated any significant value in treating acne topically. A double-blind study published in the International Journal of Dermatology found that topically applied 2% zinc sulfate demonstrated no effect in improving acne lesions between a placebo group and zinc-treated acne sufferers, though the treated patients experienced significantly greater irritancy.

COQ10 – Critical to cell respiration, Coenzyme Q10 (also known as ubequinone) helps restore mitochondrial activity by increasing the body’s energy production known as ATP.

L-Carnitine – Enhances hormonal metabolism and helps reduce the body’s fat storage cell count.

Caffeine – A form of methylxanthine, caffeine is thought to induce lipolysis (breakdown of stored fat) when applied topically. Caffeine tightens the blood vessels, stimulates the breakdown of fat cells and helps rid the body of toxins. One study published in Dermatologic Surgery found that a caffeine-based, liposome-encapsulated cream reduced fat cells over a 2-month period. However, these topicals need a good delivery system like liposomes to enable penetration.

Escin (Edemine) – Escin, or edemine, is an extract from the horse chestnut tree (see “Horse Chestnut Extract” below), which has been shown to exhibit potent vasoconstricting, anti-inflammatory and circulation-boosting properties.

Goji Berry – This supercharged antioxidant fruit provides the essential fatty acids, antioxidants and anti-inflammatories to strengthen and fortify skin cells and connective tissue from succumbing to the weakening effects that lead to cellulite.

Guarana – A tropical berry from the Amazon, guarana dilates the blood vessels and thereby increases blood flow. Guarana has also demonstrated some antioxidant activity within the body.

Horse Chestnut Extract – A potent vasoprotective, horse chestnut extract helps reduce edema associated with cellulite in the thighs. Horse chestnut seed supports blood circulation, wound healing and provides anti-inflammatory action.

Pro-Sveltyl – A derivative of the lotus flower, Pro-Sveltyl reduces fat by breaking down stored fat (lipolysis), reducing the fat storage cell differentiation (adipocyte) and stimulating the caloric restriction gene, SIRT-1, which limits the formation of new fat cells. Pro-Sveltyl also reduces tissue inflammation while inhibiting the MMP enzymes responsible for the degradation of the skin’s collagen and elastin matrix. When tested at 1%, Pro-Sveltyl reduced the MMP-9 enzyme by 73%.

Retlactyl D – This black pepper extract normalizes the expression of matrix proteins, thereby improving skin firmness and tone.

Retinoids – Vitamin A derivatives, such as retinol, can help thicken and strengthen the dermis. Some evidence suggests that retinoids may also help increase circulation to the area.

Speaking the Same Language
Research shows that men require a vastly different marketing approach than women. They like straightforward language that clearly outlines the product’s function and main benefit. They don’t want fluff — just simple, no-nonsense talk. “When you label products like Taffy and Putty, I don’t think men get it,” says Mulgrew, who cites the names of his two new products, Some Hair Gel and Some Hair Pomade, as examples of a more direct approach.

The Royal Loyal
Unlike their “beauty junkie” counterparts, men will gladly concede more than their share of room on the bathroom counter with just a few SKUs taking up space in their daily grooming ritual. Yet, men also comprise some of the most loyal customers when it comes to buying retail products at the salon level. Experience shows that they are more likely to follow a hairstylist’s recommendation to buy a particular home-care product, and they will continue to use that product as long as it’s being offered. With worldwide sales up approximately 40% over six years ago, it looks as if the male personal grooming category may just hit a double play this year with no strikes in an otherwise recessionary economy.

*Source: Euromonitor International Plc.

May 18, 2010, Livermore, California – When a group of British researchers analyzed a small sample of breast cancer tumors and discovered parabens in 18 of the 20 samples, their 2004 published study set off a public outcry against the preservatives found commonly in topical cosmetics and body care products.
As a result of the study, manufacturers scrambled to reformulate their cosmetic products. Parabens, such as methylparaben, propylparaben, ethylparaben and butylparaben, as well as their iso derivatives, were stricken from INCI lists and replaced with paraben-free preservative systems. Companies parlaying a paraben-containing shampoo, conditioner, facial moisturizer or cleanser were black-listed by some cosmetic bloggers, and consumers scoured cosmetic labels for the “P” word.
Despite the implications of that Journal of Applied Toxicology study, many questions remain today. Are parabens really that hazardous to our health, or are these once-popular preservatives just getting a bad rap?

The Paraben Paradox
On one hand, the UK-based study demonstrated that parabens are capable of penetrating the skin and accumulating in the body’s tissue fully intact. In general, parabens are known to exert weak estrogen-like activity and may lead to gene expression that causes breast tumor cells to grow.
However, the British study did not examine potential paraben levels in normal tissue. And while it is true that parabens can mimic estrogen activity, a 1998 Toxicology and Applied Pharmacology study concluded that the most potent paraben, butylparaben, demonstrated 10,000- to 100,000-fold less activity than naturally occurring estradiol. Furthermore, a 2005 Critical Reviews in Toxicology report found that parabens — even at maximum daily exposure estimates — could not increase the risk associated with estrogenic chemicals.

Parabens and Alternative Preservatives
Since the 1920s, parabens have been used widely as highly effective preservative systems in cosmetics to maintain product shelf life and to protect consumers against microbial growth.
These broad-spectrum preservatives can be found in a wide variety of food and products. They are found naturally in blueberries and even the human bloodstream as a byproduct of the amino acid tyrosine.
In cosmetics, parabens are used at low levels – generally at less than 0.2%, though they are often used in combination and, as demonstrated by the British study, may bioaccumulate in the body.
With all of the questions surrounding parabens, more contract manufacturers such as Livermore, California-based G.S. Cosmeceutical USA, Inc., are now offering safe, alternative preservatives as an option to maintain product safety, stability and shelf life.
According to G.S. Cosmeceutical CEO and Chief Scientific Officer Gogi Sangha, several variables, including a product’s pH level and water content, help determine the preservative system best suited for any given product.
Where parabens are not an option, one good alternative is a preservative system that incorporates phenoxyethanol, a synthetic preservative with a chemical makeup based on a natural antibacterial chemical found in the sage plant.
Ethylhexylglycerin is another choice, though this synthetic compound also must be paired with another preservative to maintain a high enough efficacy of microbial protection.
In recent years, the organic and natural ingredient movement has sparked a demand for food-grade and organic preservatives. Grain alcohol, for instance, is available in an organic version and can work independently in a formulation. Grain alcohol is also accepted by many associations, including the Natural Products Association (NPA).
The only downside is the perception of the word “alcohol,” which many equate with drying of the skin, though this can be countered by increasing the moisturizing ingredients in the formula.
Sodium dehydroacetate, potassium sorbate and sodium benzoate are popular “food-grade” choices. While these popular “safe enough to eat” choices tell a great marketing story, it’s important that consumers and skincare companies know that they can be ineffective in some formulations, particularly water-based products where the potential for microbial growth is much higher than anhydrous formulations. In those cases, “natural” is not always best. While you might have a cream or serum that’s free of parabens, the product could pose even greater danger to a consumer’s health if it’s contaminated with microbial organisms!
To date, major U.S. health, regulatory and cancer organizations, including the FDA and the American Cancer Society, have not found enough evidence to warrant a ban on parabens.
Nevertheless, the preliminary findings offer some cause for concern, and most agree that larger studies are needed to elucidate the long-term implications of parabens as cosmetic preservatives and what effect they might have on our health.

G.S. Cosmeceutical Explains the Proposed Regulations and What They Mean to Manufacturers

Livermore, CA, April 30, 2010 — The dangers of outdoor UV exposure have been well-documented for years. But did you know that for the past 70 years, melanoma has been steadily on the rise among fair-skinned, indoor workers?

While the hazards of outdoor solar exposure have long been blamed for skin cancer and premature signs of aging, an FDA study may have us now taking cover in our homes and workplaces as new light is shed on the dangers of indoor UVA exposure.

In their research, Dianne Godar and colleagues from the FDA’s Center for Devices and Radiological Health noted that although indoor workers with lighter skin types typically receive 3 to 9 times less solar UV exposure than their outdoor counterparts, only the indoor group demonstrated an increased incidence of malignant skin cancer. As a result, the scientists theorize that the UVA light penetrating building windows may lead to mutations and a breakdown in Vitamin D(3), which would otherwise help protect the skin against melanoma.

“For years, we’ve known that UVB promotes sunburns, and we now know that UVA light is the ultraviolet wavelength responsible for the deeper skin damage that promotes premature signs of aging,” says Gogi Sangha, CEO and Chief Scientific Officer of G.S. Cosmeceutical USA, a San Francisco Bay Area-based contract manufacturer of anti-aging cosmeceuticals, broad-spectrum sunscreens, and bath and body products. “This new research only serves to further emphasize the importance of broad-spectrum sunscreens that protect against both UVA and UVB light.”

Still, only about one in five all-day moisturizers that advertise SPF protection actually guard against UVA rays, according to the Environmental Working Group (EWG), a non-profit environmental watchdog organization.

That could change, however, with an impending new set of FDA-proposed sunscreen guidelines, which, for the first time in history, will require manufacturers to disclose their products’ UVA protection levels.

The FDA 4-Star Rating System
Among the more significant changes the FDA plans to implement include a four-star rating system for UVA protection that would be based on both in vitro and in vivo tests and incorporate a measurement of photostability.

Manufacturers would be required to include the four-star rating on their sunscreen labels and would face new restrictions in what they can and cannot say on labels. For instance, the proposed guidelines would prohibit claims such as “chemical-free,” “waterproof,” “helps prevent skin damage,” or any SPF designation greater than 50.

SPF would no longer stand for “Sun Protection Factor” but, rather, “Sunburn Protection Factor” to clarify its use as a measurement of only UVB, the rays responsible for sunburns but not the premature signs of aging or skin cancer, which is mostly attributed to UVA.

According to Sangha, more cutting-edge ingredients are becoming available, enabling the development of true broad-spectrum sunscreens that go beyond UV protection to afford real anti-aging benefits. For instance, G.S. Cosmeceutical, a FDA-registered, cGMP (Good Manufacturing Practices)-compliant contract manufacturer authorized to produce OTC sunscreens, formulates with good-for-you skin ingredients like phytomelanin, a plant-based, antioxidant-rich melanin source derived from the date palm; HelioGuard™ from the red algae Porphyra umbilicalis; and photosomes with encapsulated DNA repair enzymes derived from plankton.

Because certain sea life, including the aforementioned plankton and algae, must adapt to a harsh environment of constant UV exposure, they possess a natural photoprotection that has real human applications. Photosomes, for example, have demonstrated an ability to improve sun-damaged skin in clinical research.

Vitamins C and E can also provide a natural boost to the photoprotection, Sangha says. Researchers from Duke University found a combination of 15% L-ascorbic acid and 1% α-tocopherol exhibited excellent protection against erythema and sunburn cell formation. While each vitamin demonstrated photoprotection independently, a combination demonstrated superior performance.

Covering the Sunscreen Spectrum
For the highest level of protection, choose a sunscreen that covers a wide range across the UVB (290-320 nanometers) and UVA (320-400 nm) wavelength spectrum. You’ll also want to make sure the formula is photostable, meaning it won’t break down readily upon exposure, and stable under normal conditions. At G.S. Cosmeceutical, sunscreens are tested via standardized accelerated tests for 2-3 months and verified over 1 1/2 to 3 years.
A good sunscreen will offer anti-aging protection as well. Following are a few commonly used sunscreen ingredients and their protective range in nanometers:

Avobenzone 340-375 nm
Mexoryl 290-400 nm
Octinoxate 280-320 nm
Oxybenzone 288-326 nm
Titanium Dioxide 290-340 nm
Zinc Oxide 290-380 nm

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How Sunscreen Savvy Are You?
Many misconceptions persist in sunscreen labeling today. Test your sunscreen savvy with this true/false quiz:

True or False: The higher the SPF, the more likely the sunscreen will protect against both UVA and UVB rays.
False! Many consumers today unwittingly purchase SPF 30 products, believing they’re receiving “broad-spectrum” UVA and UVB sun protection when they’re often receiving inadequate, if any, protection against UVA rays. That’s because the SPF (Sun Protection Factor) only measures UVB rays, a short-wave radiation that causes sunburn with wavelengths of 290-320 nanometers on the UV spectrum, whereas the longer UVA rays cause most premature skin aging and skin cancer. To get a true broad-spectrum sunscreen, look for a product with ingredients that specifically protect against UVA rays, such as avobenzone, zinc oxide and, to some extent, titanium dioxide.

True or False: A SPF 50 sunscreen will provide significantly more protection than an SPF 30.
False! A sunscreen rating higher than SPF 30 does not necessarily equate to significant higher protection. A SPF 30 confers about 97% protection against UVB rays, whereas a SPF 50 only nets you about 1 to 2 additional percentage points.

True or False: Only “waterproof” sunscreens will truly last all day and need no reapplication.
False! All sunscreens need to be reapplied. The simple acts of sweating and chafing of skin make reapplication of between 20 minutes and every two hours necessary.

True or False: Micronized and nano-scale zinc oxide and titanium dioxide offer strong UVA protection and do not pose a health hazard.
True! According to the EWG, repeated studies have found that these ingredients do not penetrate healthy skin when applied topically. Micronized and non-scale minerals enable formulators to create sunscreens with comprehensive protection and a less white topical appearance.

For the highest level of protection, consumers need to always complement sunscreen use with protective clothing, including a wide-brimmed hat, and limited exposure.

Gogi Sangha, CEO & President, G.S. Cosmeceutical USA, Inc.

For years, humans have been preoccupied with altering their skin tone. In the 1970s when Americans were baking in the sun to achieve a sun-bronzed glow (before the dangers of sun exposure were fully understood), skin whiteners were a burgeoning business in Asia.
Today, skin lighteners are sought worldwide for their ability to not only lighten darker complexions but also to control age-related hyperpigmentation.
Some estimates place the skin lightening market in Asia at a total worth of $7 billion, while, over the last year alone, sales have increased by 14% in non-European markets.
As the compendium of ingredients grows so too has the availability of safer, more effective, natural and science-based lightening options.

Pathways to Lighter Skin
Sun exposure and hormones are the two biggest causes of hyperpigmentation in skin, yet blemishes, wounds and rashes can also lead to abnormal discoloration, especially in darker skin tones.
Fortunately, we can offset unwanted skin pigmentation by targeting two principal pathways: By inhibiting the production of skin pigment, or melanin, and by rendering melanin and its precursors colorless. To inhibit melanin production, we must target the enzyme tyrosinase, which converts the amino acid phenylalanine into the precursors of melanin. Or, we can formulate with ingredients that compete against tyrosine to block the activity of the tyrosinase enzyme.
At G.S. Cosmeceutical USA in Livermore, CA, researchers are on the front lines of tapping new technologies that perform as well as mainstay lighteners like hydroquinone yet without the potential side effects.
A relatively new skin brightener, Chromabright™ has demonstrated significant brightening properties in in vivo clinical trials by inhibiting melanin production on par with hydroquinone and more effectively than the common skin brightening agents arbutin, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP) and kojic acid. Furthermore, unlike other depigmenting agents that can cause photoirritation, Chromabright can help prevent UV-induced skin damage.
G.S. Cosmeceutical has also experienced favorable results with a new colorless curcumin material, which, like Chromabright, has been found in some studies to be more efficacious than hydroquinone in inhibiting melanin. Research shows that this material can inhibit 80% of melanin production and scores higher on the antioxidant ORAC (Oxygen Radical Absorbance Capacity) scale than grapeseed extract and green tea.
In addition, some newer whitening peptides have demonstrated tyrosinase-inhibiting action by targeting the protein component of the tyrosinase enzyme and other constituents. β-White™, a biomimetic encapsulated whitening peptide, for instance, decreases proteins involved in the pigmentation process, thus inhibiting tyrosinase activity and melanin synthesis. An in vitro comparative study showed that β-White induced significant skin lightening effects on 23 Asian volunteers with at least one hyperpigmented spot after four weeks.
Other skin brightening/whitening agents continue to engage the attention of formulators for their natural approach to whitening and brightening the skin. Some commonly used ingredients include:

Arbutin: Popular in Japan for skin depigmentation, arbutin is an extract from the bearberry plant that inhibits tyrosinase activity and protects the skin against free radical damage.

Azelaic Acid: Found in wheat, rye and barley grains, azelaic acid has been shown to inhibit melanin, to treat skin discoloration and to fight acne. Some studies demonstrate that topical azelaic acid in 15% to 20% concentrations may be as effective as hydroquinone without the irritation.

Bearberry (Uva ursi): This plant leaf extract contains arbutin and methyl arbutin, both hydroquinone derivatives with skin-whitening properties.

Chinese Flower (Osmanthus fragrans): Used extensively in Asia as a flavoring for tea and as a fragrance, the Osmanthus fragrans flower is showing promise in reducing tyrosinase activity and melanin-formation in a dose-dependent manner. The flower’s high phenolic and flavonoid content also point to its potential as an antioxidant treatment.

Glutathione: This natural tripeptide targets pigmentation on two fronts via competitive binding with melanin’s color-forming precursors and by reducing the pigmenting potential of the melanin.

Hexylresorcinol: This crystalline phenol offers several anti-aging benefits, including the ability to target pathways in the skin that lead to hyperpigmentation. In vivo studies have demonstrated that hexylresorcinol has the same lightening effect as 2% hydroquinone over an eight-week period of time. It is also thought that hexylresorcinol can reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and increase UV protection.

Kojic Acid: By itself or combined with glycolic acid, kojic acid has demonstrated favorable results in inhibiting tyrosinase. While kojic acid can present stability challenges, G.S. Cosmeceutical has been successful in extending the typical shelf life of this material from less than three months to more than two years.

Licorice Root (Glycyrrhetinic acid): Used commonly by natural ingredients advocates, licorice root is an ancient skin remedy that, with the aid of recent research, has now entered the modern age as an effective skin whitener.

Mulberry (Morus bombycis): The root and bark extracts of the mulberry plant might also play a useful role in inhibiting the tyrosinase enzyme that converts tyrosine into melanin’s precursors. Mulberry contains arbutin, which inhibits melanin production.

Niacinamide (Vitamin B3): In addition to providing a safe whitening alternative, niacinamide, or Vitamin B3, is helpful in treating acne, increasing hydration and reducing fine wrinkles.

Vitamin C: This water-soluble antioxidant is a commonly used anti-aging ingredient, favored, among other uses, for its skin brightening properties. Common forms include pure L-ascorbic acid, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, and sodium or magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP).

Yellow Dock (Rumex crispus): Although the chemical constituents are unknown, yellow dock has proven its worth as a potent weapon in diminishing the effects of tyrosinase.

Skin formulations typically fare best when more than one ingredient is incorporated. For instance, we can use a tyrosinase inhibitor, a tyrosine competitor and an agent to render pigmented substances into non-pigmented forms. The addition of retinol can also boost efficacy in treating skin discolorations, and some research indicates that the alpha hydroxy acids lactic and glycolic acids can inhibit melanin production aside from their chief use as exfoliants.
In the future, the demand for effective skin whiteners is expected to only increase. Global Industry Analysts (GIA) predicts the lightening market to reach $10 billion by 2015 worldwide, a growth fueled partially by a growing ethnic population and more demand for whiteners among men. With new peptides and plant-based ingredients expanding the range of whitening options, formulators will be able to keep pace with this increasing consumer demand and continue to offer safer, more effective options.

Gurpreet “Gogi” Sangha is the CEO and Chief Scientific Officer of G.S. Cosmeceutical USA, Inc., a Livermore, CA-based contract manufacturer of anti-aging skin care, body care, hair care, natural and organic-based products, and OTC cosmeceuticals. G.S. Cosmeceutical provides R&D, manufacturing and warehousing services to physicians, cosmetic entrepreneurs, corporate manufacturers, beauty start-ups and leading professionals in the spa and beauty industry. The company will celebrate its 12th anniversary May 5, 2010.
For more information about G.S. Cosmeceutical USA, Inc., please visit www.gscos.com. You may also contact Marketing Manager Andrea Sercu at 925-583-1426 or andrea@gscos.com.

Retinyl Palmitate (or Retinyl Acetate) → Retinol → Retinoic Acid

All eventually convert in the body to retinoic acid, the active form of Vitamin A, but the conversion process and potential irritation they cause in the skin can vary. As a rule, the ester (lipid-based) forms farthest to the left are the most stable and cause the least irritation. But they also take the longest to convert to retinoic acid, the bioactive form used by the skin, and therefore may be least effective. Conversely, the more active the form, such as a pharmaceutical retinoic acid at a 025%, .05% or 0.1% level, the Vitamin A is less stable and carries a higher potential for irritation.
Indeed, many skincare clients eagerly seek out the benefits Vitamin A retinols offer but all too soon shelve the cream or serum once the peeling, redness and irritation develops.
Fortunately, experts today have identified delivery systems that make stability, penetration, bioavailability and, yes, less irritation all possible. The R&D team at G.S. Cosmeceutical USA, Inc., in Livermore, CA, for instance, has perfected delivery systems that either entrap or encapsulate the more active forms of retinol in polymer systems that create a more stable, more active and more bioavailable form of Vitamin A with minimal irritation. These entrapment and encapsulation delivery systems also provide a time-release effect to feed the skin the benefits of the retinol over a prolonged period.
“The key is the delivery system, which stabilizes the formula while still working with in a free form to derive its maximum benefits,” says Irvaz Husic, Product Development Manager, at G.S. Cosmeceutical USA.
Retinol, a material that’s highly sensitive to light and air, requires precise working conditions to maintain its integrity. At G.S. Cosmeceutical, this custom contract manufacturer processes retinol under fluorescent yellow lights and nitrogen gas to protect the material from reacting. “We have special lights designed to help stabilize retinol in processing, which would otherwise oxidize faster under the normal white lights,” says Husic. “Using a blanketing process with nitrogen helps create less concentration of the oxygen and thus lowers the incidence of oxidation.”
Companion ingredients in the formulation, such as aloe vera, chamomile, bisabolol, Vitamin E and natural anti-inflammatories, also help offset irritation.
By perfecting the formulation with the precise ingredients and delivery system, the researchers at G.S. Cosmeceutical have been able to attain as high as 1% pure retinol formula where indicated, as well as 0.1% or less optimal concentration.
While others wait for the latest, greatest anti-aging topical to emerge, skincare professionals know that one of the best active topicals has actually existed for some time — retinol, still setting the gold standard in anti-aging skincare.

CEO and Chief Scientific Officer of G.S. Cosmeceutical USA, Inc.

 In the Eighties, antioxidants heralded a new age in skincare with a host of free radical fighters that afforded broad-reaching protection against future signs of aging.

Alpha hydroxy acids came along to accelerate exfoliation and rejuvenate skin, while peptides emerged in the late Nineties to gain new ground with preparations that help repair damaged cells, relax wrinkles and build collagen.

Today, the arrival of plant stem cells in topical skincare carries a new mission: the ability to not only protect, prevent and repair aging skin cells but to actually replace lost and damaged cells with healthy new skin cells. Already, the applications are yielding dramatic results with newfound promise of revolutionizing the skincare industry in ways never before realized.

 An Apple a Day Keeps Signs of Aging Away

As we age, the turnover of human epidermal stem cells begins to slow. Over time, these critical cells function less efficiently. Hindered by a finite number of potential cell divisions, lost and dying cells start to outnumber fresh new cells, and, sooner than later, they culminate in signs of aging.

Plant stem cells, however, have the ability to divide over many generations and the unique capacity to stimulate and protect human stem cells. The results are a reduction in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, collagen loss and other common signs of aging.

The most common plant-derived stem cell used in skincare today is the Swiss Uttwiler Spätlauber apple. First cultivated in the 18^th century for its hardy, long-lasting fruit, this tannin-rich fruit offers a rich source of anti-aging activity.

By forming small wounds in “explants” of the stem cell tissue, scientists are able to stimulate large cell masses known as calluses, which contain the “unprogrammed” and undifferentiated cells of the plant. It is within these “blank canvases” that exciting, new applications in skincare yield promise, including the ability to increase the longevity of human skin cells and stimulate new ones.

In a Swiss in-house study published in the SOFW Journal in 2008¹, scientists showed that a 0.1% concentration of stem cells extracted from the Uttwiler Spätlauber apple stimulated the proliferation of human stem cells by 80%.

In followup experiments, the scientists irradiated a human stem cell sample with UV light. While nearly half of the cultured stem cells died when exposed to the UV light, the number of living cells grown in the culture containing the apple extract experienced only a small decrease.

Further Swiss studies showed that incubating fibroblast cells — the building blocks of collagen and other skin structural tissue proteins — in a 2% Uttwiler Spätlauber apple extract neutralized factors that lead to aging and, in some cases, actually reversed the process.

 Additional Plant Stem Cells Showing Promise

A wide range of plant stem cells, including extracts from edelweiss, echinacea, gotu kola and several lilac varietals, may offer significant future skincare applications.

For instance, edelweiss, an Alpine flower with a special affinity to survive extreme altitudes and solar radiation exposure, offers potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits. Edelweiss stem cells inhibit the enzymes that break down hyaluronic acid and collagen.

To illustrate, a cream with 1% edelweiss stem cells used twice daily reduced wrinkle depth of the eye contour area by 15% after 20 days of treatment in a clinical study involving 20 individuals.

The stem cells from echinacea, a botanical revered for its immune-strengthening properties, have also demonstrated an ability to inhibit collagenase, the enzyme that breaks down collagen, while stimulating the synthesis of new collagen in vitro.

Likewise, stem cells from the gotu kola plant, also known as tiger grass, have been shown to decrease the skin-degrading enzyme, hyaluronidase, by up to 90% and therefore retain the skin’s hyaluronic acid, a key extracellular matrix ingredient responsible for hydration and elasticity.

Other plant-derived stem cells may offer new applications in fighting acne. Syringa vulgaris L., otherwise known as common lilac, has been shown to inhibit 5α-reductase, an enzyme involved in sebum production, as well as decrease the pro-inflammatory chemokine IL-8. In clinical studies, a cream containing 1% of a patented plant stem cell extract reduced lesions in 29 acne patients by 40% in 30 days and showed a significant decrease in inflammation and melanin pigmentation.

By combining these plant-derived stem cells with other anti-aging actives, such as peptides, proteins and cell-active folic acid, we can rejuvenate skin cell DNA, the core center for all cell renewal processes, and literally give aging skin a fresh new start.

Gurpreet “Gogi” Sangha is the CEO and Chief Scientific Officer of G.S. Cosmeceutical USA, Inc., a Livermore, CA-based contract manufacturer of anti-aging skin care, body care, hair care, natural and organic-based products, and OTC cosmeceuticals. G.S. Cosmeceutical provides R&D, manufacturing and warehousing services to physicians, cosmetic entrepreneurs, corporate manufacturers, beauty start-ups and leading professionals in the spa and beauty industry.

For more information about G.S. Cosmeceutical USA, Inc., please visit www.gscos.com or call 925-583-1426.

 Source: Schmid D, Schurch P, Belser E, Zülli F. Plant Stem Extract for Cell Longevity of Skin and Hair. SOFW Journal. 2008;134(5):30-5.

G.S. Cosmeceutical USA, Inc.

Every decade has its particular “star technologies”; historic breakthroughs that can be credited for fueling the growth and advancement of our beloved and ever-evolving skincare industry. In the eighties, we heralded the birth of AHA’s to accelerate our collective, ever-slowing, cell renewal process. The popularity of fruity acids resounded globally, as skincare obsessive’s around the globe eagerly celebrated the arrival of younger, fresher-looking skin. In the nineties, industry enthusiasts coveted new, super-potent wrinkle-fighting ingredients which sourced a fresh breed of mega anti-oxidants, including Co-Q10 and Idebenone, a highly efficacious, skin regenerative, free radical warrior.

Alpha Hydroxy based products, popular in the eighties and nineties, remain very popular today.

By the late nineties and into the new millennium, our industry began to re-focus its attention and resources on two highly diverse fronts, one natural…the other synthetic. On the natural end of things, cosmetic formulators began touting the amazing preventative and restorative powers of mega-potent food and berry extracts: including Polyphenols (Resveratrol), Pomegranate Extract, Acai Berry, Blueberries and Mangosteen.

Resveratrol has proven to be one of the most highly sought after natural anti-oxidants in formulations today.

The broad endorsement of Peptide Technology has been striking. It is not simply cosmetic researchers, formulators and beauty editors who have become modern evangelists for Peptides, it is Dermatologists as well.

Peptides are lab engineered, bio-available, amino acid chains that direct the skin to take action!

Indeed, a recent article in CosmeticDesign.com confirms that these trained physicians…“see the potential for bioactive peptide ingredients in cosmetics as ‘immense’ due to their (Peptides) highly targeted and flexible nature”.¹

So, what are peptides exactly… and, why have so many new breakthrough products released over the past decade been formulated and manufactured to showcase these sophisticated anti-aging chemicals?

According to a study led by the Kline Group, a leading beauty industry research firm; “Peptides are anti-aging focused chemicals, synthetics, which claim to bring pharmaceutical strength technology to non-prescription products.” “In essence, they are pharma grade anti-aging ingredients packed into ”² The Kline Group believes “that the global anti-aging phenomenon has been the key driving force behind the enormous growth in the skin care segment in recent years, which in turn has led to the development of a plethora of innovative chemicals, including a virtual smorgasbord of Peptides for skincare innovators to choose from”.³

The anti-aging trend was the catalyst for the development of Peptides; sophisticated chemicals offering targeted anti-aging solutions.

Others define Peptides in much more simplistic ways. Peptides function as messengers in the skin, allowing the epidermis and dermis to communicate more efficiently. This is important, because one of the key effects of aging is reduced communication within the skin, resulting in decreased collagen production and an aggregation of degraded elastin fibers. Decreased collagen production (less supportive, firming fibers), coupled with degraded elastin (diminished skin elasticity and flexibility) combine exponentially to produce classic visible signs of aging; including thinner skin, fine and deep wrinkles, sagging and flaccidity and overall loss of skin ‘tone’.

Classic signs of both intrinsic and photo-aging: loss of firmness, wrinkles and sagging.

The great news is that these ‘mini or abbreviated proteins’ (Peptides) can be created in lab to be highly active, influential molecules, which can direct the cells in our body to take specific actions. While there are many different types of peptides, those that are used in skincare are synthetically engineered to enter the cells of the skin and remain intact. Once in the skin, they are able to communicate and direct the skin cells to behave in a certain way. For example, they can direct the cells to produce new healthy collagen and/or elastin fibers…causing the epidermis to appear thicker, smoother and younger! This helps to explain why Peptide Technology is ultra desirable and can command significantly higher prices, when embedded into your standard anti-aging formulations.

Current research indicates that the popularity of Peptides is due in part, to

Matrixyl, a favorite of anti-aging chemists, shows statistically significant reduction in 'wrinkle depth'.

the fact that these molecules can be “tinkered with” or “customized” fairly easily. For example, there are several Peptides out there that have been designed to ‘tell’ the skin to produce more collagen and hyaluronic acid. The most famous of the anti-aging Peptides is one with an INCI name of Palmitoyl Pentapeptide; but commonly known as Matrixyl. Originally developed for use on stretch marks, Matrixyl has also been used to promote more rapid healing of skin wounds. Manufacturers of formulas containing this Peptide claim statistically significant improvements in the reduction of deep wrinkles and the disappearance of small and fine wrinkles.

Then there are the peptides which are positioned as topical alternatives to Botox™. Consider Acetyl Hexapeptide (INCI), which many know as Argireline. By claiming to relax certain types of facial wrinkles by blocking the release of neurotransmitters, this trendy anti-aging Peptide has spearheaded the development of an entirely new category of Peptides

Neuro-Peptides: a network of amino acids.

known as “Neuropeptides”. A clinical study published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science reported that when used at a 10% concentration level, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 actually reduced wrinkle depth by up to 30 percent—after 30 days of continuous use. And to top that off, there is clinical evidence that this small Peptide may even deter wrinkles from forming in the first place! Imagine that! While not Botox™ by any stretch of the imagination, one must admit that this designer chemical can be viewed as a formidable opponent to our most obvious sign of aging: The Wrinkle!

But, let’s not stop there… Excited chemists decided to offer Argireline a synergistic soul mate (of sorts) to partner with on tough anti-aging jobs.

Aging can be beautiful, thanks to Peptide Technology!

Hence, the birth of Leuphasyl®, or Pentapeptide-3 (INCI). Working hand-in-peptide with Argireline, the two custom chemicals collaborate perfectly to reduce the depth of wrinkles on the face, especially in the forehead area and around the eyes, where we need it the most.

Speaking of necessity… collective need and strong global market demand remain the mothers of invention for the skincare industry. Concerns by millions of image conscious Baby Boomers and Post-Boomers, (as well as a solid segment of Generation X’ers seeking precautionary anti-aging treatments) led Cosmetic Researchers to design yet another highly specialized peptide known as Hexapeptide-10 (INCI). This breakthrough Peptide was engineered to improve cell adhesion and as a result, reduce the loss of skin firmness (sagging). Also known as ‘Serilesine’ this Peptide multi-tasks effectively, to concurrently reduce dryness and yellowing of skin tone.

Industry insiders predict that a virtual parade of these lab-engineered genies will continue to inspire for years to come.

Peptide research is advancing at breathtaking speed. Few doubt that these highly specialized synthetic proteins will cease to be the ‘it factor’ of cosmetic compounding any time soon. Industry insiders predict that a virtual parade of these lab-engineered genies will continue to inspire, enrich an influence the thinking and methodologies of skincare manufacturers for decades to come.

Consider the possibilities… While today, cutting-edge, anti-wrinkle Peptides like (Syn®-Ake) are lab-engineered to mimic the effects of Viper Snakes… the Peptides of the future could have even broader and considerably more inventive applications.

Imagine injectable Peptides, that would encourage your skin to generate needed fat.

In fact, researchers from the Lawrence Berkeley National Laboratory are currently in the early stages of work on a new Peptide-based technology to replace dermal filler injections and cosmetic surgery procedures. They believe that an injectable peptide could be created to induce growth of fat under the skin. This would allow us to literally plump-up our own aging skin with the body’s own fat, indigenous to the skin itself!⁴

And what, you may ask; does the scientific community really think about this explosive technology that has gracefully commandeered centre stage over the past decade?

At G.S. Cosmeceutical, a San Francisco Bay Area custom-contract- manufacturer of skincare and other cosmeceutical products, Owner and Chief Science Officer Gogi Sangha weighs in on the subject, pondering the timeless connection and inherent synergism between beauty and science, stating:

Gogi Sangha is the Founder, CEO and CSO of G.S. Cosmeceutical in Livermore, California.

G. S. Cosmeceutical USA, INC. is known for offering it's clients customized Peptide formulations.

G.S.Cosmeceutical: "Science of Beauty...Naturally."

1. CosmeticDesign.com: Katie Bird, March 24, 2009 Issue
2. CosmeticDesign.com; Simon Pittman, June 17, 2009 Issue
3. CosmeticDesign.com; Simon Pittman, June 17, 2009 Issue
4. CosmeticDesign.com; Katie Bird, March 4, 2009 Issue