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	<title> &#187; Retail Skincare</title>
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		<title>5 Key Features of a Winning Sunscreen Formula</title>
		<link>http://gscos.com/blog/5-key-features-of-a-winning-sunscreen-formula</link>
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		<pubDate>Mon, 21 Nov 2011 23:56:39 +0000</pubDate>
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				<category><![CDATA[Contract Manufacturing]]></category>
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		<description><![CDATA[G.S. Cosmeceutical outlines 5 key elements to building a winning sunscreen formula]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong>Get to Know These 5 Critical Changes That Can Make or Break a SPF Product</strong><br />
November 21, 2011 &#8211; Next summer, consumers will soon see the first wave of many changes to their favorite sunscreen products as the FDA’s new SPF product regulations take effect. In particular, five key changes will ultimately shape the future of suncare. Whether you’re a consumer or a company marketing a SPF brand, don’t get burned! Familiarize yourself with these industry-changing regulations before the new products hit the shelves. </p>
<p><strong>1. Make it Broad-Spectrum</strong><br />
Theoretically, a sunscreen can have an SPF of 50 but still have zero Ultraviolet A (UVA) protection. In other words, a person could spend two hours in the sun and show no signs of sunburn. Meanwhile, the longer UVA rays are attacking her skin, leading to cell DNA damage, hyperpigmentation, wrinkles, loss of elasticity, and, in ever-increasing numbers, skin cancer.<br />
For years, the FDA has only required sunscreen manufacturers to test the Ultraviolet B (UVB) protection that gives a sunscreen its SPF, or Sun Protection Factor. But that number only indicates the amount of time a UVB sunscreen will prevent the skin from reddening when exposed to ultraviolet light.<br />
For a sunscreen to be truly effective, it needs to afford broad-spectrum protection by covering a significant percentage of the UVA range, 320-400 nanometers, as well as the Ultraviolet B (UVB) range, 290-320 nanometers.<br />
Earlier this year, the FDA revised its sunscreen monograph to implement new standards that establish a broad-spectrum test for determining a sunscreen’s UVA protection level proportionate to its UVB protection.<br />
Look for a mix of UV filters that, when used in combination, will give your sunscreen both UVA and UVB protection:</p>
<p><strong>UVA filters (320-400 nm)</strong><br />
Zinc Oxide<br />
Titanium Dioxide<br />
Avobenzone<br />
Oxybenzone (Benzophenone)<br />
Dioxybenzone<br />
Ecamsule		</p>
<p><strong>UVB filters (290-320 nm)</strong><br />
Zinc Oxide<br />
Titanium Dioxide<br />
Trolamine Salicylate<br />
Homosalate<br />
Octinoxate<br />
Octocrylene<br />
Dioxybenzone<br />
Octisalate<br />
Oxybenzone<br />
Cinoxate</p>
<p><strong>2. Set Your SPF Goals High… But Not Too High</strong><br />
Sunscreens can range from 2 to 50+. The FDA’s newly revised monograph grants products with an SPF 15 or higher certain privileges that lower-rated products do not have. For instance, only products of SPF 15 or greater that pass the broad-spectrum test will be able to state that they are “broad spectrum” on the front label and feature certain label claims attesting to their ability to reduce the risk of skin cancer and early skin aging when used as directed.<br />
On the other hand, products that are either not broad-spectrum or are broad-spectrum but have SPFs lower than 15 will need to carry a skin cancer/skin aging warning statement. “The objective is to encourage manufacturers to produce products that screen both UVA and UVB rays at a sufficient level to guard against skin cancer and the premature signs of aging,” says Gogi Sangha, CEO and president of G.S. Cosmeceutical USA, a Bay Area-based, FDA-registered, cGMP-compliant custom contract manufacturer of facial, body and OTC skincare products, including sunscreens.<br />
While some sunscreen products on the market advertise SPFs of 80, 90 or even 100, the FDA has proposed a new rule capping SPF claims at “50+” or less. The percentage differences between SPF 15 and 30 and particularly between SPF 30 and 50 are negligible. According to the FDA, no sufficient studies to date have demonstrated that SPF values greater than 50 confer any significant extra protection.</p>
<p><strong>3. Add Antioxidants and Other Skin Protectants</strong><br />
The sun assaults the skin daily with a high dose of free radicals that can damage DNA and age the skin faster than any other single factor. Some evidence suggests that even certain ingredients in sunscreens might produce Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) when ultraviolet light reacts with ingredients that have penetrated the skin. One solution is to continue reapplying sunscreen to prevent UV light from reaching the UV filters that have penetrated the skin.<br />
Certain antioxidants and other ingredients can also help to counteract the damaging effects. Red algae contains natural UV-screening compound known as mycosporine-like amino acids that actually absorb UVA light. Studies have shown that this natural material:<br />
	Boosts SPF<br />
	Reduces UV-induced DNA damage in human fibroblasts (the source of our collagen which gives our skin its firmness)<br />
	Prevents loss of firmness<br />
	Increases skin smoothness<br />
	Decreases wrinkles depth<br />
 In addition, some published peer-reviewed studies demonstrate that Vitamins C and E work synergistically with sunscreen to offer more protection than sunscreen alone. </p>
<p><strong>4. Select a Proven OTC Manufacturer</strong><br />
Sunscreens making SPF claims fall within the over-the-counter (OTC) category of skincare products. Because the FDA regulates this class of product, sunscreens must be registered as OTC products and contain a label following the accepted Drug Facts format. A contract manufacturer of sunscreens must be FDA-registered, cGMP (Good Manufacturing Practices)-compliant.<br />
In addition, broad-spectrum products must undergo the new FDA SPF testing requirements, which subject each sunscreen to a 10-subject UVB <em>in vivo</em> test and a UVA <em>in vitro</em> test.<br />
Make sure your contract manufacturer has the experience to successfully formulate a SPF product that will pass these rigorous tests, contain your desired ingredients and comply with the FDA’s guidelines.</p>
<p><strong>5. Make Sure Your Product is Covered</strong><br />
Many manufacturers were caught off guard when the FDA announced it would no longer allow companies that market towelettes, wipes, powders, body washes and shampoos to continue making SPF claims.<br />
The agency also prohibited the use of claims referring to products as “waterproof” or “sweatproof.” Rather, these products may bear a “water-resistant” claim and must specify effectiveness against sweating or swimming based on specified testing methods. Sunscreens that are not water-resistant must advise use of a water-resistant sunscreen after swimming or sweating.<br />
Make sure you stay informed with the latest FDA developments and partner with an experienced sunscreen contract manufacturer who can help you navigate the many changes affecting this critical product category.</p>
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		<title>May is Melanoma/Skin Cancer Detection &amp; Prevention Month</title>
		<link>http://gscos.com/blog/may-is-melanomaskin-cancer-detection-prevention-month</link>
		<comments>http://gscos.com/blog/may-is-melanomaskin-cancer-detection-prevention-month#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 10 May 2011 19:11:20 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Contract Manufacturing]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Cosmeceutical Manufacturing]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Cosmetic Chemistry and Formulation]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Cosmetics]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Health and Wellness]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[OTC Drug Manufacturing]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Personal Care Products]]></category>
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		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://gscos.com/blog/?p=292</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[May 9, 2011 &#8211; Fewer people are getting cancer today — with one exception. Melanoma is on the rise, particularly among young people. In fact, melanoma is the most common cancer among those 25 to 29 years old, and, according to the American Cancer Society, more skin cancer cases are diagnosed than breast, prostate, lung [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><em>May 9, 2011 &#8211; </em>Fewer people are getting cancer today — with one exception. Melanoma is on the rise, particularly among young people. In fact, melanoma is the most common cancer among those 25 to 29 years old, and, according to the American Cancer Society, more skin cancer cases are diagnosed than breast, prostate, lung and colon cancer combined.<br />
Yet, melanoma is also highly preventable. If detected and treated early enough, melanoma can be almost 100% curable.<br />
You can do much to prevent melanoma and other skin cancers from forming. Here’s how.</p>
<p><strong>The Changing Phases of Melanoma</strong><br />
Characterized by the uncontrolled growth of pigment cells, melanoma results in three-quarters of all skin cancer deaths. Incredibly, between 40% and 50% of Americans who live to age 65 will have skin cancer at least once in their life time, according to the National Cancer Institute, Bethesda, MD. Melanomas can evolve from seemingly insignificant moles to potentially fatal growths if left unchecked. </p>
<p><strong>Melanoma goes through four stages:</strong><br />
<strong>Stage 0 (in situ): </strong>Melanoma is confined to the epidermis.<br />
<strong>Stage 1-II: </strong>Melanoma is still confined to the skin but is increasing in thickness.<br />
<strong>Stage III:</strong> Melanoma spreads to one or more nearby lymph nodes.<br />
<strong>Stage IV: </strong>Melanoma spreads to an internal organ.</p>
<p>A biopsy report can provide an exact diagnosis of melanoma and may also determine its current stage. A dermatologist must assess how deeply the melanoma has traveled and whether it’s spread to other parts of the body. Then, treatment may involve excision to surgically extract the melanoma and cut the skin around it. More serious cases may require Mohs surgery, which is conducted by a specialist with a microscope to remove the growth layer by layer until only healthy tissue remains.</p>
<p><strong>Who’s At Risk?</strong><br />
The first step in prevention is to recognize the risk factors.<br />
<strong>Genetic predisposition.</strong> A family history of skin cancer, a fair complexion and light eyes are all factors that characterize a genetic predisposition toward melanoma. Specifically, redheads and blondes and blue or green eyes characterize the skin cancer profile. Any immune system deficiency or a previous cancer history can also heighten your risk.<br />
<strong>Unusual Moles.</strong> Almost everyone has some moles on their body, but if you have more than 50 you may be at substantially increased risk of developing melanoma. A suspicious mole often has irregular borders and color. One half of the mole typically does not match the other half.<br />
An easy way to screen suspicious moles is to use the ABCDE rule:<br />
<strong>Asymmetry: </strong>If you were to fold the two sides of the mole together, they would not match.<br />
<strong>Border irregularity:</strong> The edges of the mole are jagged or blurred.<br />
<strong>Color: </strong>There is a non-uniform color to the mole, which may be tan, brown, black or even white, red or blue in color.<br />
<strong>Diameter: </strong>Melanomas usually exceed 6 mm in size (about the size of an eraser on a pencil).<br />
<strong>Evolving:</strong> Any mole that is changing in size, shape or color should be presented to a physician for review.</p>
<p><strong>How to Prevent Melanoma from Forming</strong><br />
<strong>Avoid Excess UV Exposure. </strong>By far, the greatest step you can take to prevent melanoma is to avoid excessive exposure to ultraviolet radiation. Those who live closest to the equator, where the sunlight is most intense, are at further risk.<br />
<strong>Check Your Birthday Suit On Your Birthday. </strong>The American Academy of Dermatology recommends everyone perform regular skin self-examinations, even checking your scalp, palms, soles, toenails and between your toes. A seemingly innocent bruise that fades and then reappears or a brown to black streak under a nail can both be signs of melanoma. If you fall into a high-risk group or have a suspicious melanoma, it’s advisable to get a full-body exam at least annually.<br />
<strong>Always Wear a Broad-Spectrum Sunscreen.</strong> Get in the habit of wearing a broad-spectrum sunscreen of at least SPF 15 daily, even on cloudy, rainy and snowy days. A broad-spectrum sunscreen will filter both UVB (think “B” for burning rays) and UVA rays (think “A” for aging rays). Apply the sunscreen on all exposed skin and reapply every 2 hours while outdoors.<br />
While most sunscreens with a SPF 15 and 30 are capable of preventing you from burning, they may not be affording you the protection against UVA you need to prevent premature signs of aging. Studies show that UVA can penetrate glass, so even those with office jobs who sit by a window all day are not safe from the dangers of UVA rays.<br />
According to Gogi Sangha, CEO and President of G.S. Cosmeceutical USA, Inc., a FDA-registered, cGMP-compliant custom contract manufacturer in Livermore, CA, a good broad-spectrum sunscreen will contain either mineral UV filters, such as zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, or chemical filters, including avobenzone, a FDA-approved UVA-filtering agent.<br />
For best results, choose a sunscreen that is photostable, meaning it won’t break down upon exposure, and is stable under normal conditions as well. At G.S. Cosmeceutical, sunscreens undergo stability testing over 2 to 3 years with accelerated tests for up to 6 months.<br />
<strong>Avoid Tanning Beds. </strong>Ultraviolet light from tanning beds can cause skin cancer and premature aging. In fact, research shows that indoor tanning can increase a person’s melanoma risk by 75%. If you crave a deeper skin tone, it’s better to use a sunless self-tanner, like a DHT formula that works with the skin’s natural melanin content, says Sangha. Just be aware that a sunless tan does not afford any UV protection. A good broad-spectrum sunscreen is still highly recommended.<br />
<strong>Wear Protective Clothing. </strong>Wide-brimmed hats, long-sleeved shirts and pants, and UV-protectant sunglasses will help to protect your skin for extended times outdoors.<br />
<strong>Take Cover in the Shade. </strong>The sun’s rays are strongest between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m. Seek cover indoors or at least in a shaded spot during those hours when the UV index is at its most intense.<br />
<strong>Boost Immunity Through Diet. </strong>Lastly, you can increase your natural defenses against skin cancer through diet. Citrus fruits, such as lemons, oranges, tangerines and grapefruits, for instance, have been linked to a lowered incidence of skin cancer. Foods high in beta carotene, including sweet potatoes and carrots; cruciferous vegetables like cabbage, broccoli and cauliflower; garlic; and green tea are all great immune boosters.<br />
By practicing good prevention and diagnostic measures, you can protect yourself against skin cancer and be among <em>the other half </em>living life skin cancer-free.</p>
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		<title>Men&#8217;s Grooming Throws a Fast Pitch in the Beauty Game</title>
		<link>http://gscos.com/blog/mens-grooming-throws-a-fast-pitch-in-the-beauty-game</link>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 22 Jun 2010 21:06:25 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Contract Manufacturing]]></category>
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		<description><![CDATA[June 22, 2010, Livermore, California &#8211; You might liken the state of the male grooming category to the women’s category in the early 1900s, when the typical beauty regimen consisted of soap and cold cream. When it comes to grooming habits, men are slow-evolving creatures who largely prefer simple regimens — no more than 3 [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><em>June 22, 2010, Livermore, California</em> &#8211; You might liken the state of the male grooming category to the women’s category in the early 1900s, when the typical beauty regimen consisted of soap and cold cream. When it comes to grooming habits, men are slow-evolving creatures who largely prefer simple regimens — no more than 3 steps, thank you — and products that perform the basic necessities: cleanse, moisturize, maybe prep their beard for a shave and, for the really adventurous, something to impede hair loss.<br />
Yet as the industry continues to widen its offerings in hair care, skin care, body care and shaving, today’s average male consumer is becoming increasingly hip to new grooming rituals.<br />
With global sales of male skin, hair and body care products topping nearly $27 billion last year*, Unilever, L’Oreal, Beiersdorf AG and Procter &#038; Gamble’s Gillette are all stepping up to plate in the male category. Gillette is making a play on its guy-friendly brand name as it launches the new ProSeries line, including a pre-shave thermal scrub, which the company compares to a hot towel service at the barber shop; a cooling after-shave moisturizer; a face wash for sensitive skin; and a UV protectant/moisturizer.<br />
Other mass brands like Nivea for Men and Axe are targeting the male consumer with demo-specific lines at the grocery store and drugstore level, while more mid- to high-end lines are delivering on what former American Crew president John Mulgrew calls “affordable luxury.”<br />
“Today’s baby boomer represents the aging male population and is more consumed and educated about his appearance,” says Mulgrew, who is now the managing director of The Grooming Lounge, a small chain of Washington D.C.-based, high-end barbering salons with a growing line of skin and hair care products.<br />
“About 15 years ago, it was taboo for a guy to say to his buddies that he uses moisturizer, but today, surprisingly, there’s so much information out about UV rays and melanoma, it’s OK to say that. Although, I don’t know that it’s yet OK for them to admit they use an eye cream!” he says.<br />
Gary Whitfield, owner of the Australian-based men’s line, Himself27, agrees, noting that men are still “firefighters” when it comes to buying grooming products. They purchase out of need and to put out a specific problem, like irritation from shaving. “I think at the moment, men are interested in problem-solving products. In the longer term, premium ‘anti-age’ product will do well as the average guy becomes more educated to the benefits of regular skin care,” Whitfield says.<br />
Some of the newer offerings for men include hair enhancement serums formulated with technologically advanced peptides that stop hair loss and encourage new growth, says Gogi Sangha, CEO and Chief Scientific Officer of G.S. Cosmeceutical USA. This Bay Area-based contract manufacturer of anti-aging cosmeceuticals and OTC skincare has also formulated anti-aging serums, antioxidant-rich eye treatments and oil control treatments specifically geared to the male consumer. </p>
<p><strong>Speaking the Same Language</strong><br />
Research shows that men require a vastly different marketing approach than women. They like straightforward language that clearly outlines the product’s function and main benefit. They don’t want fluff — just simple, no-nonsense talk. “When you label products like Taffy and Putty, I don’t think men get it,” says Mulgrew, who cites the names of his two new products, Some Hair Gel and Some Hair Pomade, as examples of a more direct approach.</p>
<p><strong>The Royal Loyal</strong><br />
Unlike their “beauty junkie” counterparts, men will gladly concede more than their share of room on the bathroom counter with just a few SKUs taking up space in their daily grooming ritual. Yet, men also comprise some of the most loyal customers when it comes to buying retail products at the salon level. Experience shows that they are more likely to follow a hairstylist’s recommendation to buy a particular home-care product, and they will continue to use that product as long as it’s being offered. With worldwide sales up approximately 40% over six years ago, it looks as if the male personal grooming category may just hit a double play this year with no strikes in an otherwise recessionary economy.</p>
<p>*Source: Euromonitor International Plc.</p>
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		<title>Sunscreens Set to Reflect New FDA Guidelines</title>
		<link>http://gscos.com/blog/sunscreens-set-to-reflect-new-fda-guidelines</link>
		<comments>http://gscos.com/blog/sunscreens-set-to-reflect-new-fda-guidelines#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 30 Apr 2010 20:38:28 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Contract Manufacturing]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[Cosmetics]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[OTC Drug Manufacturing]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Personal Care Products]]></category>
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		<description><![CDATA[Sunscreens Set to Reflect New FDA Guidelines
G.S. Cosmeceutical Explains the Proposed Regulations and What They Mean to Manufacturers
Livermore, CA, April 30, 2010 — The dangers of outdoor UV exposure have been well-documented for years. But did you know that for the past 70 years, melanoma has been steadily on the rise among fair-skinned, indoor workers? [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong>Sunscreens Set to Reflect New FDA Guidelines</strong></p>
<p><strong>G.S. Cosmeceutical Explains the Proposed Regulations and What They Mean to Manufacturers</strong></p>
<p>Livermore, CA, April 30, 2010 — The dangers of outdoor UV exposure have been well-documented for years. But did you know that for the past 70 years, melanoma has been steadily on the rise among fair-skinned, indoor workers? </p>
<p>While the hazards of outdoor solar exposure have long been blamed for skin cancer and premature signs of aging, an FDA study may have us now taking cover in our homes and workplaces as new light is shed on the dangers of indoor UVA exposure. </p>
<p>In their research, Dianne Godar and colleagues from the FDA’s Center for Devices and Radiological Health noted that although indoor workers with lighter skin types typically receive 3 to 9 times less solar UV exposure than their outdoor counterparts, only the indoor group demonstrated an increased incidence of malignant skin cancer. As a result, the scientists theorize that the UVA light penetrating building windows may lead to mutations and a breakdown in Vitamin D(3), which would otherwise help protect the skin against melanoma. </p>
<p>“For years, we’ve known that UVB promotes sunburns, and we now know that UVA light is the ultraviolet wavelength responsible for the deeper skin damage that promotes premature signs of aging,” says Gogi Sangha, CEO and Chief Scientific Officer of G.S. Cosmeceutical USA, a San Francisco Bay Area-based contract manufacturer of anti-aging cosmeceuticals, broad-spectrum sunscreens, and bath and body products. “This new research only serves to further emphasize the importance of broad-spectrum sunscreens that protect against both UVA and UVB light.” </p>
<p>Still, only about one in five all-day moisturizers that advertise SPF protection actually guard against UVA rays, according to the Environmental Working Group (EWG), a non-profit environmental watchdog organization. </p>
<p>That could change, however, with an impending new set of FDA-proposed sunscreen guidelines, which, for the first time in history, will require manufacturers to disclose their products’ UVA protection levels.  </p>
<p><strong>The FDA 4-Star Rating System</strong><br />
Among the more significant changes the FDA plans to implement include a four-star rating system for UVA protection that would be based on both in vitro and in vivo tests and incorporate a measurement of photostability. </p>
<p>Manufacturers would be required to include the four-star rating on their sunscreen labels and would face new restrictions in what they can and cannot say on labels. For instance, the proposed guidelines would prohibit claims such as “chemical-free,” “waterproof,” “helps prevent skin damage,” or any SPF designation greater than 50. </p>
<p>SPF would no longer stand for “Sun Protection Factor” but, rather, “Sunburn Protection Factor” to clarify its use as a measurement of only UVB, the rays responsible for sunburns but not the premature signs of aging or skin cancer, which is mostly attributed to UVA.</p>
<p>According to Sangha, more cutting-edge ingredients are becoming available, enabling the development of true broad-spectrum sunscreens that go beyond UV protection to afford real anti-aging benefits. For instance, G.S. Cosmeceutical, a FDA-registered, cGMP (Good Manufacturing Practices)-compliant contract manufacturer authorized to produce OTC sunscreens, formulates with good-for-you skin ingredients like phytomelanin, a plant-based, antioxidant-rich melanin source derived from the date palm; HelioGuard™ from the red algae Porphyra umbilicalis; and photosomes with encapsulated DNA repair enzymes derived from plankton. </p>
<p>Because certain sea life, including the aforementioned plankton and algae, must adapt to a harsh environment of constant UV exposure, they possess a natural photoprotection that has real human applications. Photosomes, for example, have demonstrated an ability to improve sun-damaged skin in clinical research.  </p>
<p>Vitamins C and E can also provide a natural boost to the photoprotection, Sangha says. Researchers from Duke University found a combination of 15% L-ascorbic acid and 1% α-tocopherol exhibited excellent protection against erythema and sunburn cell formation. While each vitamin demonstrated photoprotection independently, a combination demonstrated superior performance.</p>
<p><strong>Covering the Sunscreen Spectrum</strong><br />
For the highest level of protection, choose a sunscreen that covers a wide range across the UVB (290-320 nanometers) and UVA (320-400 nm) wavelength spectrum. You’ll also want to make sure the formula is photostable, meaning it won’t break down readily upon exposure, and stable under normal conditions. At G.S. Cosmeceutical, sunscreens are tested via standardized accelerated tests for 2-3 months and verified over 1 1/2 to 3 years.<br />
A good sunscreen will offer anti-aging protection as well. Following are a few commonly used sunscreen ingredients and their protective range in nanometers:</p>
<p>Avobenzone 		340-375 nm<br />
Mexoryl			290-400 nm<br />
Octinoxate		280-320 nm<br />
Oxybenzone		288-326 nm<br />
Titanium Dioxide 		290-340 nm<br />
Zinc Oxide 		290-380 nm</p>
<p>____________________________<br />
<strong>How Sunscreen Savvy Are You?</strong><br />
Many misconceptions persist in sunscreen labeling today. Test your sunscreen savvy with this true/false quiz:</p>
<p><strong>True or False: </strong>The higher the SPF, the more likely the sunscreen will protect against both UVA and UVB rays.<br />
False! Many consumers today unwittingly purchase SPF 30 products, believing they’re receiving “broad-spectrum” UVA and UVB sun protection when they’re often receiving inadequate, if any, protection against UVA rays. That’s because the SPF (Sun Protection Factor) only measures UVB rays, a short-wave radiation that causes sunburn with wavelengths of 290-320 nanometers on the UV spectrum, whereas the longer UVA rays cause most premature skin aging and skin cancer.  To get a true broad-spectrum sunscreen, look for a product with ingredients that specifically protect against UVA rays, such as avobenzone, zinc oxide and, to some extent, titanium dioxide.</p>
<p><strong>True or False: </strong>A SPF 50 sunscreen will provide significantly more protection than an SPF 30.<br />
False! A sunscreen rating higher than SPF 30 does not necessarily equate to significant higher protection. A SPF 30 confers about 97% protection against UVB rays, whereas a SPF 50 only nets you about 1 to 2 additional percentage points.</p>
<p><strong>True or False:</strong> Only “waterproof” sunscreens will truly last all day and need no reapplication.<br />
False! All sunscreens need to be reapplied. The simple acts of sweating and chafing of skin make reapplication of between 20 minutes and every two hours necessary.</p>
<p><strong>True or False:</strong> Micronized and nano-scale zinc oxide and titanium dioxide offer strong UVA protection and do not pose a health hazard.<br />
True! According to the EWG, repeated studies have found that these ingredients do not penetrate healthy skin when applied topically. Micronized and non-scale minerals enable formulators to create sunscreens with comprehensive protection and a less white topical appearance. </p>
<p>For the highest level of protection, consumers need to always complement sunscreen use with protective clothing, including a wide-brimmed hat, and limited exposure.</p>
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		<title>Retinols: Setting the Gold Standard in Anti-Aging Skincare</title>
		<link>http://gscos.com/blog/retinols-setting-the-gold-standard-in-anti-aging-skincare</link>
		<comments>http://gscos.com/blog/retinols-setting-the-gold-standard-in-anti-aging-skincare#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 24 Feb 2010 16:46:34 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Contract Manufacturing]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Cosmeceutical Manufacturing]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Cosmetic Chemistry and Formulation]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Cosmetics]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Health and Wellness]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[OTC Drug Manufacturing]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Personal Care Products]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Retail Skincare]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Skincare Technology]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://gscos.com/blog/?p=187</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Each year, a new ingredient emerges in the skin care industry, promising breakthrough benefits. Antioxidants came along to protect the skin from UV damage. Alpha hydroxy acids revolutionized with their resurfacing action. Peptides promised to smooth and repair, and, recently, stem cells surfaced to replace damaged and aging skin cells. But few skincare ingredients can [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Each year, a new ingredient emerges in the skin care industry, promising breakthrough benefits. Antioxidants came along to protect the skin from UV damage. Alpha hydroxy acids revolutionized with their resurfacing action. Peptides promised to smooth and repair, and, recently, stem cells surfaced to replace damaged and aging skin cells. But few skincare ingredients can promise the same proven and versatile benefits as retinoids (Vitamin A).<br />
Now, upon the recent news of the death of Dr. Albert Kligman, the dermatologist who patented the retinoic acid drug, Retin-A and coined the term “cosmeceuticals,” a tribute to Vitamin A’s long-held role in skincare only seems fitting.<br />
Often referred to as the “gold standard” for treating aging skin, Vitamin A and its retinoid family, address a wide range of conditions from oily skin and acne, wrinkles and collagen to age spots, skin tone, texture and hydration.<br />
In fact, if you asked skincare practitioners to choose one ingredient that would address all the signs of UV damage, the No. 1 cause of aging in the skin, most would agree that retinol (without a prescription) and retinoic acid (tretinoin with a prescription) would top the list.<br />
That is because Vitamin A resolves most skin conditions by promoting healthy cell differentiation. Vitamin A also has a small molecular structure capable of penetrating the underlayers of the skin where collagen and elastin are produced.<br />
By itself, Vitamin A does not have any direct effect on the skin. Rather, specialized enzymes in the skin convert retinol and other biochemical derivatives of Vitamin A into retinoic acid, which interacts with receptors that bind to DNA. In turn, this binding action activates genes related to cell growth and cell cycle regulation, resulting in younger-acting, healthier skin cells.<br />
But not all retinoids deliver the same results. If you were to line up the derivatives on a spectrum, it would look something like this:</p>
<p><strong>Retinyl Palmitate (or Retinyl Acetate) → Retinol → Retinoic Acid</strong></p>
<p>All eventually convert in the body to retinoic acid, the active form of Vitamin A, but the conversion process and potential irritation they cause in the skin can vary. As a rule, the ester (lipid-based) forms farthest to the left are the most stable and cause the least irritation. But they also take the longest to convert to retinoic acid, the bioactive form used by the skin, and therefore may be least effective. Conversely, the more active the form, such as a pharmaceutical retinoic acid at a 025%, .05% or 0.1% level, the Vitamin A is less stable and carries a higher potential for irritation.<br />
Indeed, many skincare clients eagerly seek out the benefits Vitamin A retinols offer but all too soon shelve the cream or serum once the peeling, redness and irritation develops.<br />
Fortunately, experts today have identified delivery systems that make stability, penetration, bioavailability and, yes, less irritation all possible. The R&#038;D team at G.S. Cosmeceutical USA, Inc., in Livermore, CA, for instance, has perfected delivery systems that either entrap or encapsulate the more active forms of retinol in polymer systems that create a more stable, more active and more bioavailable form of Vitamin A with minimal irritation. These entrapment and encapsulation delivery systems also provide a time-release effect to feed the skin the benefits of the retinol over a prolonged period.<br />
“The key is the delivery system, which stabilizes the formula while still working with in a free form to derive its maximum benefits,” says Irvaz Husic, Product Development Manager, at G.S. Cosmeceutical USA.<br />
Retinol, a material that’s highly sensitive to light and air, requires precise working conditions to maintain its integrity. At G.S. Cosmeceutical, this custom contract manufacturer processes retinol under fluorescent yellow lights and nitrogen gas to protect the material from reacting. “We have special lights designed to help stabilize retinol in processing, which would otherwise oxidize faster under the normal white lights,” says Husic. “Using a blanketing process with nitrogen helps create less concentration of the oxygen and thus lowers the incidence of oxidation.”<br />
Companion ingredients in the formulation, such as aloe vera, chamomile, bisabolol, Vitamin E and natural anti-inflammatories, also help offset irritation.<br />
By perfecting the formulation with the precise ingredients and delivery system, the researchers at G.S. Cosmeceutical have been able to attain as high as 1% pure retinol formula where indicated, as well as 0.1% or less optimal concentration.<br />
While others wait for the latest, greatest anti-aging topical to emerge, skincare professionals know that one of the best active topicals has actually existed for some time — retinol, still setting the gold standard in anti-aging skincare.</p>
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		<title>Stem Cells Plant Seeds to New Potential in Anti-Aging Skincare</title>
		<link>http://gscos.com/blog/stem-cells-plant-seeds-to-new-potential-in-anti-aging-skincare</link>
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		<pubDate>Mon, 01 Feb 2010 18:01:15 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Contract Manufacturing]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Cosmeceutical Manufacturing]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Cosmetic Chemistry and Formulation]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Cosmetics]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Health and Wellness]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[OTC Drug Manufacturing]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[anti-aging skincare]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[stem cells]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://gscos.com/blog/?p=180</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[By Gurpreet “Gogi” Sangha
CEO and Chief Scientific Officer of G.S. Cosmeceutical USA, Inc.
 In the Eighties, antioxidants heralded a new age in skincare with a host of free radical fighters that afforded broad-reaching protection against future signs of aging.
Alpha hydroxy acids came along to accelerate exfoliation and rejuvenate skin, while peptides emerged in the late Nineties [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>By Gurpreet “Gogi” Sangha</p>
<p>CEO and Chief Scientific Officer of G.S. Cosmeceutical USA, Inc.</p>
<p> In the Eighties, antioxidants heralded a new age in skincare with a host of free radical fighters that afforded broad-reaching protection against future signs of aging.</p>
<p>Alpha hydroxy acids came along to accelerate exfoliation and rejuvenate skin, while peptides emerged in the late Nineties to gain new ground with preparations that help repair damaged cells, relax wrinkles and build collagen.</p>
<p>Today, the arrival of plant stem cells in topical skincare carries a new mission: the ability to not only protect, prevent and repair aging skin cells but to actually <em>replace</em> lost and damaged cells with healthy new skin cells. Already, the applications are yielding dramatic results with newfound promise of revolutionizing the skincare industry in ways never before realized.</p>
<p> <strong>An Apple a Day Keeps Signs of Aging Away</strong></p>
<p>As we age, the turnover of human epidermal stem cells begins to slow. Over time, these critical cells function less efficiently. Hindered by a finite number of potential cell divisions, lost and dying cells start to outnumber fresh new cells, and, sooner than later, they culminate in signs of aging.</p>
<p>Plant stem cells, however, have the ability to divide over many generations and the unique capacity to stimulate and protect human stem cells. The results are a reduction in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, collagen loss and other common signs of aging.</p>
<p>The most common plant-derived stem cell used in skincare today is the Swiss Uttwiler Spätlauber apple. First cultivated in the 18<sup>th</sup> century for its hardy, long-lasting fruit, this tannin-rich fruit offers a rich source of anti-aging activity.</p>
<p>By forming small wounds in “explants” of the stem cell tissue, scientists are able to stimulate large cell masses known as calluses, which contain the “unprogrammed” and undifferentiated cells of the plant. It is within these “blank canvases” that exciting, new applications in skincare yield promise, including the ability to increase the longevity of human skin cells and stimulate new ones.</p>
<p>In a Swiss in-house study published in the <em>SOFW Journal</em> in 2008¹, scientists showed that a 0.1% concentration of stem cells extracted from the Uttwiler Spätlauber apple stimulated the proliferation of human stem cells by 80%.</p>
<p>In followup experiments, the scientists irradiated a human stem cell sample with UV light. While nearly half of the cultured stem cells died when exposed to the UV light, the number of living cells grown in the culture containing the apple extract experienced only a small decrease.</p>
<p>Further Swiss studies showed that incubating fibroblast cells — the building blocks of collagen and other skin structural tissue proteins — in a 2% Uttwiler Spätlauber apple extract neutralized factors that lead to aging and, in some cases, actually reversed the process.</p>
<p> <strong>Additional Plant Stem Cells Showing Promise</strong></p>
<p>A wide range of plant stem cells, including extracts from edelweiss, echinacea, gotu kola and several lilac varietals, may offer significant future skincare applications.</p>
<p>For instance, edelweiss, an Alpine flower with a special affinity to survive extreme altitudes and solar radiation exposure, offers potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits. Edelweiss stem cells inhibit the enzymes that break down hyaluronic acid and collagen.</p>
<p>To illustrate, a cream with 1% edelweiss stem cells used twice daily reduced wrinkle depth of the eye contour area by 15% after 20 days of treatment in a clinical study involving 20 individuals.</p>
<p>The stem cells from echinacea, a botanical revered for its immune-strengthening properties, have also demonstrated an ability to inhibit collagenase, the enzyme that breaks down collagen, while stimulating the synthesis of new collagen <em>in vitro</em>.</p>
<p>Likewise, stem cells from the gotu kola plant, also known as tiger grass, have been shown to decrease the skin-degrading enzyme, hyaluronidase, by up to 90% and therefore retain the skin’s hyaluronic acid, a key extracellular matrix ingredient responsible for hydration and elasticity.</p>
<p>Other plant-derived stem cells may offer new applications in fighting acne. <em>Syringa vulgaris L.,</em> otherwise known as common lilac, has been shown to inhibit 5α-reductase, an enzyme involved in sebum production, as well as decrease the pro-inflammatory chemokine IL-8. In clinical studies, a cream containing 1% of a patented plant stem cell extract reduced lesions in 29 acne patients by 40% in 30 days and showed a significant decrease in inflammation and melanin pigmentation.</p>
<p>By combining these plant-derived stem cells with other anti-aging actives, such as peptides, proteins and cell-active folic acid, we can rejuvenate skin cell DNA, the core center for all cell renewal processes, and literally give aging skin a fresh new start.</p>
<p><em>Gurpreet “Gogi” Sangha is the CEO and Chief Scientific Officer of G.S. Cosmeceutical USA, Inc., a Livermore, CA-based contract manufacturer of anti-aging skin care, body care, hair care, natural and organic-based products, and OTC cosmeceuticals. G.S. Cosmeceutical provides R&amp;D, manufacturing and warehousing services to physicians, cosmetic entrepreneurs, corporate manufacturers, beauty start-ups and leading professionals in the spa and beauty industry.</em></p>
<p>For more information about G.S. Cosmeceutical USA, Inc., please visit <a href="http://www.gscos.com">www.gscos.com</a> or call 925-583-1426.<em></em></p>
<p> Source: Schmid D, Schurch P, Belser E, Zülli F. Plant Stem Extract for Cell Longevity of Skin and Hair. <em>SOFW Journal.</em> 2008;134(5):30-5.</p>
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		<title>THE CASE FOR COSMECEUTICALS!</title>
		<link>http://gscos.com/blog/the-case-for-cosmeceuticals</link>
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		<pubDate>Fri, 24 Jul 2009 02:35:30 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Contract Manufacturing]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[Cosmetics]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[Skincare Technology]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://gscosmeceuticalusainc.wordpress.com/?p=60</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[This blog expands upon the "Working Smarter Not Harder" philosophy, which involves the magnetic allure of a well-branded skincare (or OTC product line) that is known to have been conceived and developed by you, dispensed and marketed strategically to grow your business or practice. The right products can generate unprecedented revenue streams by attracting a considerable amount of new foot traffic, providing a compelling reason for your clients and patients to return more often…. and persuding your loyal "fans" to spend more (than before) during each visit. Read on to learn more...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p style="text-align:center;"><strong>IN YOUR SPA OR MEDICAL PRACTICE</strong></p>
<p style="text-align:center;"><em>By VP of Global Sales and Marketing, G.S. Cosmeceutical USA, Inc.</em></p>
<p><strong>Can you recall that simple catch phrase…the one about “<em>working</em> <em>smarter, not harder</em>”?</strong>While you may not have heard this folksy truism much during Med School, your MBA program or your tenure at the Esthetics&#8217;s Academy, this phrase has taken on new meaning for many financially savvy health care professionals, spa owners and aesthetic service providers, eager to become <em>cash positive</em> in today’s recessed economic environment of managed health care and third-party reimbursement. </p>
<blockquote><p>In fact, astute Physicians, Spa Owners and Estheticians have discovered a way to <em>work smarter and grow faster</em>,<em> </em>by dispensing their own proprietary cosmeceuticals and OTC products, on-site.</p>
<p>Statistics indicate that the availability of high-end, nicely packaged cosmeceuticals complementing aesthetic or dermatologic treatments offered at a spa or medical facility can produce significant increases in profits, as well as unexpected boost to the business’s financial immune system.</p>
<div id="attachment_66" class="wp-caption alignright" style="width: 110px"><a rel="attachment wp-att-66" href="http://gscos.wordpress.com/?attachment_id=66"><img class="size-thumbnail wp-image-66" title="Open jar of face cream" src="http://gscosmeceuticalusainc.files.wordpress.com/2009/07/istock_cosmetic-jar-upscale.jpg?w=100" alt="Extend your professional services and profits by sending your patients home with custom formulated skincare products." width="100" height="150" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Extend your professional services and profits by sending your patients home with custom formulated skincare products.</p></div>
<p>And, if these upscale skincare products are<strong> <em>priced correctly, marketed aggressively, explained clearly and recommended consistently by you and your staff</em></strong>, they may truly prove to be the real ‘pot of gold’ at the end of the rainbow! Indeed, the magnetic allure of a well-branded skincare (or OTC product line) that is <em>known to have been conceived and developed by you<strong>,</strong></em> can be capable of attracting a considerable amount of new foot traffic, successful in providing those already loyal to you a compelling reason to return more often…. and highly persuasive in providing a reason for your fans to spend more (than before) during each visit.</p></blockquote>
<p><a rel="attachment wp-att-83" href="http://gscos.wordpress.com/?attachment_id=83"><img class="alignleft size-thumbnail wp-image-83" title="iStock_currency Small[1]" src="http://gscosmeceuticalusainc.files.wordpress.com/2009/07/istock_currency-small1.jpg?w=150" alt="iStock_currency Small[1]" width="150" height="102" /></a>Now if you are an intuitive retailer at heart, you’ll appreciate the enormous value of <strong><em>head count acquisition, average ticket size</em> and <em>frequency of return-rate</em></strong><em>.</em> And…let’s not allow semantics to get in the way. Whether you call the object-of-your-care a “patient”, “client”, “guest” or “customer”, you know that the key to your medical practice or spa <em>remaining financially healthy</em> is based on your ability to <em>attract new folks</em> and <em>retain the fans you have in your client base.</em>. By offering your very own line of products… <em>exclusive, elegant, innovative, efficacious products</em>… you’ll do just that! In fact, the benefits and financial rewards that your own exclusive product line can provide will grow exponentially over time! Once you and your staff become true believers and product evangelists… you’ll experience incremental revenue streams and profits that were once unimaginable. And remember, the best part of this whole scenario is that “<strong><em>retail is, and always will be, a cash-based business!</em></strong>” <em> <img class="alignright size-thumbnail wp-image-62" title="iStock_money sign" src="http://gscosmeceuticalusainc.files.wordpress.com/2009/07/istock_money-sign.jpg?w=100" alt="iStock_money sign" width="100" height="150" /></em></p>
<p>In fact, tens of thousands of  medical and aesthetic professionals understand the economic potential that comes with the sales and distribution of products on-site, on-line or through third party distribution channels, and have already gone about setting up their own thriving skin care, baby care, hair care or pet care businesses. Some have turned to Private Label Manufacturers to provide them with stock (in-house) formulations and packaging, in an effort to save on time, as well as formulation, packaging and manufacturing costs.</p>
<p> <strong><em>But for just a bit more of an investment in time, money and effort, you can have your products made and formulated from scratch, to meet your own exact standards, preferences and expectations. Perhaps that is why more physicians and skincare entrepreneurs are now hiring “custom” contract manufacturers to develop truly unique and proprietary products for them</em></strong><strong>.</strong> One such custom, contract manufacturer is <a href="http://www.gscos.com" target="_blank"><strong><em>G.S. Cosmeceutical USA, Inc.</em></strong>, </a>a moderately-sized, FDA-certified GMP Manufacturer of cosmeceuticals and OTC’s (Over-The-Counter Drug Products) which was founded by Organic Chemist and Cosmetic Researcher, Gogi Sangha.</p>
<div id="attachment_101" class="wp-caption alignright" style="width: 160px"><a rel="attachment wp-att-101" href="http://gscos.wordpress.com/?attachment_id=101"><img class="size-thumbnail wp-image-101" title="Gogi's pic 0130783-R01-014" src="http://gscosmeceuticalusainc.files.wordpress.com/2009/07/gogis-pic-0130783-r01-0144.jpg?w=150" alt="Gogi Sangha, CEO and Owner of G. S. Cosmeceutical USA, Inc." width="150" height="109" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Gogi Sangha, CEO and Owner of G. S. Cosmeceutical USA, Inc.</p></div>
<p><a rel="attachment wp-att-84" href="http://gscos.wordpress.com/?attachment_id=84"></a>“GSC” is known for providing Dermatologists, Physicians, Estheticians, Cosmetic Entrepreneurs and Spa Proprietors a means by which to manifest their skin care and sun care dreams.</p>
<div id="attachment_99" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 160px"><a rel="attachment wp-att-99" href="http://gscos.wordpress.com/?attachment_id=99"><img class="size-thumbnail wp-image-99" title="GSC with new sign 3" src="http://gscosmeceuticalusainc.files.wordpress.com/2009/07/gsc-with-new-sign-3.jpg?w=150" alt="G.S. Cosmeceutical Headquarters in Livermore, California" width="150" height="116" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">G.S. Cosmeceutical Headquarters in Livermore, California</p></div>
<p>Located in the beautiful San Francisco Bay Area, the GSC Formulation Team begins each project, (figuratively) with a clean slate. They first seek to understand the client’s <em>specific and unique product vision</em>. With the <em>end in mind</em>, the team then cooks up a recipe of carefully selected raw materials, merged with innovative technologies and precisely chosen botanicals and actives, to meet the client’s proprietary specs. The results deliver <em>one-of-a-kind custom skin care,  sun care, hair care or baby care formulas which are fresh and utterly distinct</em>. <a rel="attachment wp-att-65" href="http://gscos.wordpress.com/?attachment_id=65"><img class="size-thumbnail wp-image-65  alignright" title="GSCOS lab image" src="http://gscosmeceuticalusainc.files.wordpress.com/2009/07/gscos-lab-image.jpg?w=113" alt="GSCOS lab image" width="113" height="150" /></a></p>
<p> Which takes us back full circle to that simple, but brilliant concept that we started with: <strong>“Working Smarter, Not Harder”</strong><em>&#8212;</em> in an effort to forge ahead financially now and in years to come. But, <em>“working smarter”</em> is a strategy that <em>will</em> require hard work! It will demand that you have the mental fortitude, strength, courage and willingness to take new steps and engage in actions that will move you off of the proverbial <em>practice plateau </em>or out from under the<em> business depression/regression mind-set</em>, into a stage of innovation<em>. Y</em>ou’ll need to <strong>try something new, in order to garner new results.</strong> <em>So, what are you waiting for?</em> Join the gold rush; infuse cash back into your spa business or practice by giving your “fans” the products they are already clamoring for. <strong><em>For, if not YOU, then WHO will give them what they really want?  </em></strong></p>
<div id="attachment_64" class="wp-caption alignnone" style="width: 160px"><a rel="attachment wp-att-64" href="http://gscos.wordpress.com/?attachment_id=64"><img class="size-thumbnail wp-image-64" title="iStock_bullseye and money" src="http://gscosmeceuticalusainc.files.wordpress.com/2009/07/istock_bullseye-and-money.jpg?w=150" alt="Hit your revenue goals by dispensing your own custom line of skincare, OTC's, or spa products at your business or practice!" width="150" height="149" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Hit your revenue goals by dispensing your own custom line of skincare, OTC&#39;s, or spa products at your business or practice!</p></div>
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