Blending the Best of Science and Nature
Many of today’s actives continue to pull rank on their more natural counterparts in ingredients’ listing to help firm skin; stimulate collagen and elastin production; and smooth the appearance of lines and wrinkles. Yet in the consumers’ quest for more natural ingredients, many raw material suppliers are finding plant-based alternatives for conventional ingredients. For example, Cognis’ Laboratoires Serobiologiques recently introduced Actiwhite, a natural whitener and hydroquinone alternative derived from green peas, and Myoxinol, a hibiscus-derived peptide offering a Botox-like, muscle-relaxing effect.
Likewise, Lipotec of Spain has come out with Antarctacine, a natural, Ecocert-certified moisturizer and collagen/elastin booster derived from microorganisms found in Antarctic glaciers.
Most recently, Iceland-based ORF Genetics launched the first plant-based growth factors produced from barley seeds, offering an alternative to traditional growth factors derived from E. coli, yeast and animal cells.
Organics too are becoming more readily available; however, formulating a certified organic water-based formula that meets the USDA National Organics Program (NOP) 95% certified organic standards can be challenging. For instance, with water-based formulations, you must have a preservative that is capable of killing the microbes that grow in a water environment. However, as Sangha explains, many such preservatives, such as phenoxyethanol, are not permitted by the USDA on their approved non-organic list, and those organic preservatives that are permitted, such as organic alcohol or potassium sorbate, are beset by other issues, such as odor or lack of efficacy in a hydrous formula.
For this reason, more skincare companies are formulating to a 70% “made with organics” level or are turning to hybrid formulations that combine organic plant extracts with the heavy lifters of the cosmeceutical world.
Manufacturing such products requires a formulator experienced in both organics and actives, notes Sangha, who is well-versed in formulating with both certified organic ingredients as well as actives including retinol, peptides, plant stem cells and lightening agents.
For best results, also look for a manufacturer who is FDA registered, compliant with Good Manufacturing Practices (cGMP) and accredited as a USDA NOP certified organic handler. These areas of distinctions will help hold the contract manufacturer to a higher standard in their formulation and manufacturing practices.

Gogi Sangha, CEO & President, G.S. Cosmeceutical USA, Inc.

For years, humans have been preoccupied with altering their skin tone. In the 1970s when Americans were baking in the sun to achieve a sun-bronzed glow (before the dangers of sun exposure were fully understood), skin whiteners were a burgeoning business in Asia.
Today, skin lighteners are sought worldwide for their ability to not only lighten darker complexions but also to control age-related hyperpigmentation.
Some estimates place the skin lightening market in Asia at a total worth of $7 billion, while, over the last year alone, sales have increased by 14% in non-European markets.
As the compendium of ingredients grows so too has the availability of safer, more effective, natural and science-based lightening options.

Pathways to Lighter Skin
Sun exposure and hormones are the two biggest causes of hyperpigmentation in skin, yet blemishes, wounds and rashes can also lead to abnormal discoloration, especially in darker skin tones.
Fortunately, we can offset unwanted skin pigmentation by targeting two principal pathways: By inhibiting the production of skin pigment, or melanin, and by rendering melanin and its precursors colorless. To inhibit melanin production, we must target the enzyme tyrosinase, which converts the amino acid phenylalanine into the precursors of melanin. Or, we can formulate with ingredients that compete against tyrosine to block the activity of the tyrosinase enzyme.
At G.S. Cosmeceutical USA in Livermore, CA, researchers are on the front lines of tapping new technologies that perform as well as mainstay lighteners like hydroquinone yet without the potential side effects.
A relatively new skin brightener, Chromabright™ has demonstrated significant brightening properties in in vivo clinical trials by inhibiting melanin production on par with hydroquinone and more effectively than the common skin brightening agents arbutin, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP) and kojic acid. Furthermore, unlike other depigmenting agents that can cause photoirritation, Chromabright can help prevent UV-induced skin damage.
G.S. Cosmeceutical has also experienced favorable results with a new colorless curcumin material, which, like Chromabright, has been found in some studies to be more efficacious than hydroquinone in inhibiting melanin. Research shows that this material can inhibit 80% of melanin production and scores higher on the antioxidant ORAC (Oxygen Radical Absorbance Capacity) scale than grapeseed extract and green tea.
In addition, some newer whitening peptides have demonstrated tyrosinase-inhibiting action by targeting the protein component of the tyrosinase enzyme and other constituents. β-White™, a biomimetic encapsulated whitening peptide, for instance, decreases proteins involved in the pigmentation process, thus inhibiting tyrosinase activity and melanin synthesis. An in vitro comparative study showed that β-White induced significant skin lightening effects on 23 Asian volunteers with at least one hyperpigmented spot after four weeks.
Other skin brightening/whitening agents continue to engage the attention of formulators for their natural approach to whitening and brightening the skin. Some commonly used ingredients include:

Arbutin: Popular in Japan for skin depigmentation, arbutin is an extract from the bearberry plant that inhibits tyrosinase activity and protects the skin against free radical damage.

Azelaic Acid: Found in wheat, rye and barley grains, azelaic acid has been shown to inhibit melanin, to treat skin discoloration and to fight acne. Some studies demonstrate that topical azelaic acid in 15% to 20% concentrations may be as effective as hydroquinone without the irritation.

Bearberry (Uva ursi): This plant leaf extract contains arbutin and methyl arbutin, both hydroquinone derivatives with skin-whitening properties.

Chinese Flower (Osmanthus fragrans): Used extensively in Asia as a flavoring for tea and as a fragrance, the Osmanthus fragrans flower is showing promise in reducing tyrosinase activity and melanin-formation in a dose-dependent manner. The flower’s high phenolic and flavonoid content also point to its potential as an antioxidant treatment.

Glutathione: This natural tripeptide targets pigmentation on two fronts via competitive binding with melanin’s color-forming precursors and by reducing the pigmenting potential of the melanin.

Hexylresorcinol: This crystalline phenol offers several anti-aging benefits, including the ability to target pathways in the skin that lead to hyperpigmentation. In vivo studies have demonstrated that hexylresorcinol has the same lightening effect as 2% hydroquinone over an eight-week period of time. It is also thought that hexylresorcinol can reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and increase UV protection.

Kojic Acid: By itself or combined with glycolic acid, kojic acid has demonstrated favorable results in inhibiting tyrosinase. While kojic acid can present stability challenges, G.S. Cosmeceutical has been successful in extending the typical shelf life of this material from less than three months to more than two years.

Licorice Root (Glycyrrhetinic acid): Used commonly by natural ingredients advocates, licorice root is an ancient skin remedy that, with the aid of recent research, has now entered the modern age as an effective skin whitener.

Mulberry (Morus bombycis): The root and bark extracts of the mulberry plant might also play a useful role in inhibiting the tyrosinase enzyme that converts tyrosine into melanin’s precursors. Mulberry contains arbutin, which inhibits melanin production.

Niacinamide (Vitamin B3): In addition to providing a safe whitening alternative, niacinamide, or Vitamin B3, is helpful in treating acne, increasing hydration and reducing fine wrinkles.

Vitamin C: This water-soluble antioxidant is a commonly used anti-aging ingredient, favored, among other uses, for its skin brightening properties. Common forms include pure L-ascorbic acid, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, and sodium or magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP).

Yellow Dock (Rumex crispus): Although the chemical constituents are unknown, yellow dock has proven its worth as a potent weapon in diminishing the effects of tyrosinase.

Skin formulations typically fare best when more than one ingredient is incorporated. For instance, we can use a tyrosinase inhibitor, a tyrosine competitor and an agent to render pigmented substances into non-pigmented forms. The addition of retinol can also boost efficacy in treating skin discolorations, and some research indicates that the alpha hydroxy acids lactic and glycolic acids can inhibit melanin production aside from their chief use as exfoliants.
In the future, the demand for effective skin whiteners is expected to only increase. Global Industry Analysts (GIA) predicts the lightening market to reach $10 billion by 2015 worldwide, a growth fueled partially by a growing ethnic population and more demand for whiteners among men. With new peptides and plant-based ingredients expanding the range of whitening options, formulators will be able to keep pace with this increasing consumer demand and continue to offer safer, more effective options.

Gurpreet “Gogi” Sangha is the CEO and Chief Scientific Officer of G.S. Cosmeceutical USA, Inc., a Livermore, CA-based contract manufacturer of anti-aging skin care, body care, hair care, natural and organic-based products, and OTC cosmeceuticals. G.S. Cosmeceutical provides R&D, manufacturing and warehousing services to physicians, cosmetic entrepreneurs, corporate manufacturers, beauty start-ups and leading professionals in the spa and beauty industry. The company will celebrate its 12th anniversary May 5, 2010.
For more information about G.S. Cosmeceutical USA, Inc., please visit www.gscos.com. You may also contact Marketing Manager Andrea Sercu at 925-583-1426 or andrea@gscos.com.

G.S. Cosmeceutical USA, Inc.

Every decade has its particular “star technologies”; historic breakthroughs that can be credited for fueling the growth and advancement of our beloved and ever-evolving skincare industry. In the eighties, we heralded the birth of AHA’s to accelerate our collective, ever-slowing, cell renewal process. The popularity of fruity acids resounded globally, as skincare obsessive’s around the globe eagerly celebrated the arrival of younger, fresher-looking skin. In the nineties, industry enthusiasts coveted new, super-potent wrinkle-fighting ingredients which sourced a fresh breed of mega anti-oxidants, including Co-Q10 and Idebenone, a highly efficacious, skin regenerative, free radical warrior.

Alpha Hydroxy based products, popular in the eighties and nineties, remain very popular today.

By the late nineties and into the new millennium, our industry began to re-focus its attention and resources on two highly diverse fronts, one natural…the other synthetic. On the natural end of things, cosmetic formulators began touting the amazing preventative and restorative powers of mega-potent food and berry extracts: including Polyphenols (Resveratrol), Pomegranate Extract, Acai Berry, Blueberries and Mangosteen.

Resveratrol has proven to be one of the most highly sought after natural anti-oxidants in formulations today.

The broad endorsement of Peptide Technology has been striking. It is not simply cosmetic researchers, formulators and beauty editors who have become modern evangelists for Peptides, it is Dermatologists as well.

Peptides are lab engineered, bio-available, amino acid chains that direct the skin to take action!

Indeed, a recent article in CosmeticDesign.com confirms that these trained physicians…“see the potential for bioactive peptide ingredients in cosmetics as ‘immense’ due to their (Peptides) highly targeted and flexible nature”.¹

So, what are peptides exactly… and, why have so many new breakthrough products released over the past decade been formulated and manufactured to showcase these sophisticated anti-aging chemicals?

According to a study led by the Kline Group, a leading beauty industry research firm; “Peptides are anti-aging focused chemicals, synthetics, which claim to bring pharmaceutical strength technology to non-prescription products.” “In essence, they are pharma grade anti-aging ingredients packed into ”² The Kline Group believes “that the global anti-aging phenomenon has been the key driving force behind the enormous growth in the skin care segment in recent years, which in turn has led to the development of a plethora of innovative chemicals, including a virtual smorgasbord of Peptides for skincare innovators to choose from”.³

The anti-aging trend was the catalyst for the development of Peptides; sophisticated chemicals offering targeted anti-aging solutions.

Others define Peptides in much more simplistic ways. Peptides function as messengers in the skin, allowing the epidermis and dermis to communicate more efficiently. This is important, because one of the key effects of aging is reduced communication within the skin, resulting in decreased collagen production and an aggregation of degraded elastin fibers. Decreased collagen production (less supportive, firming fibers), coupled with degraded elastin (diminished skin elasticity and flexibility) combine exponentially to produce classic visible signs of aging; including thinner skin, fine and deep wrinkles, sagging and flaccidity and overall loss of skin ‘tone’.

Classic signs of both intrinsic and photo-aging: loss of firmness, wrinkles and sagging.

The great news is that these ‘mini or abbreviated proteins’ (Peptides) can be created in lab to be highly active, influential molecules, which can direct the cells in our body to take specific actions. While there are many different types of peptides, those that are used in skincare are synthetically engineered to enter the cells of the skin and remain intact. Once in the skin, they are able to communicate and direct the skin cells to behave in a certain way. For example, they can direct the cells to produce new healthy collagen and/or elastin fibers…causing the epidermis to appear thicker, smoother and younger! This helps to explain why Peptide Technology is ultra desirable and can command significantly higher prices, when embedded into your standard anti-aging formulations.

Current research indicates that the popularity of Peptides is due in part, to

Matrixyl, a favorite of anti-aging chemists, shows statistically significant reduction in 'wrinkle depth'.

the fact that these molecules can be “tinkered with” or “customized” fairly easily. For example, there are several Peptides out there that have been designed to ‘tell’ the skin to produce more collagen and hyaluronic acid. The most famous of the anti-aging Peptides is one with an INCI name of Palmitoyl Pentapeptide; but commonly known as Matrixyl. Originally developed for use on stretch marks, Matrixyl has also been used to promote more rapid healing of skin wounds. Manufacturers of formulas containing this Peptide claim statistically significant improvements in the reduction of deep wrinkles and the disappearance of small and fine wrinkles.

Then there are the peptides which are positioned as topical alternatives to Botox™. Consider Acetyl Hexapeptide (INCI), which many know as Argireline. By claiming to relax certain types of facial wrinkles by blocking the release of neurotransmitters, this trendy anti-aging Peptide has spearheaded the development of an entirely new category of Peptides

Neuro-Peptides: a network of amino acids.

known as “Neuropeptides”. A clinical study published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science reported that when used at a 10% concentration level, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 actually reduced wrinkle depth by up to 30 percent—after 30 days of continuous use. And to top that off, there is clinical evidence that this small Peptide may even deter wrinkles from forming in the first place! Imagine that! While not Botox™ by any stretch of the imagination, one must admit that this designer chemical can be viewed as a formidable opponent to our most obvious sign of aging: The Wrinkle!

But, let’s not stop there… Excited chemists decided to offer Argireline a synergistic soul mate (of sorts) to partner with on tough anti-aging jobs.

Aging can be beautiful, thanks to Peptide Technology!

Hence, the birth of Leuphasyl®, or Pentapeptide-3 (INCI). Working hand-in-peptide with Argireline, the two custom chemicals collaborate perfectly to reduce the depth of wrinkles on the face, especially in the forehead area and around the eyes, where we need it the most.

Speaking of necessity… collective need and strong global market demand remain the mothers of invention for the skincare industry. Concerns by millions of image conscious Baby Boomers and Post-Boomers, (as well as a solid segment of Generation X’ers seeking precautionary anti-aging treatments) led Cosmetic Researchers to design yet another highly specialized peptide known as Hexapeptide-10 (INCI). This breakthrough Peptide was engineered to improve cell adhesion and as a result, reduce the loss of skin firmness (sagging). Also known as ‘Serilesine’ this Peptide multi-tasks effectively, to concurrently reduce dryness and yellowing of skin tone.

Industry insiders predict that a virtual parade of these lab-engineered genies will continue to inspire for years to come.

Peptide research is advancing at breathtaking speed. Few doubt that these highly specialized synthetic proteins will cease to be the ‘it factor’ of cosmetic compounding any time soon. Industry insiders predict that a virtual parade of these lab-engineered genies will continue to inspire, enrich an influence the thinking and methodologies of skincare manufacturers for decades to come.

Consider the possibilities… While today, cutting-edge, anti-wrinkle Peptides like (Syn®-Ake) are lab-engineered to mimic the effects of Viper Snakes… the Peptides of the future could have even broader and considerably more inventive applications.

Imagine injectable Peptides, that would encourage your skin to generate needed fat.

In fact, researchers from the Lawrence Berkeley National Laboratory are currently in the early stages of work on a new Peptide-based technology to replace dermal filler injections and cosmetic surgery procedures. They believe that an injectable peptide could be created to induce growth of fat under the skin. This would allow us to literally plump-up our own aging skin with the body’s own fat, indigenous to the skin itself!⁴

And what, you may ask; does the scientific community really think about this explosive technology that has gracefully commandeered centre stage over the past decade?

At G.S. Cosmeceutical, a San Francisco Bay Area custom-contract- manufacturer of skincare and other cosmeceutical products, Owner and Chief Science Officer Gogi Sangha weighs in on the subject, pondering the timeless connection and inherent synergism between beauty and science, stating:

Gogi Sangha is the Founder, CEO and CSO of G.S. Cosmeceutical in Livermore, California.

G. S. Cosmeceutical USA, INC. is known for offering it's clients customized Peptide formulations.

G.S.Cosmeceutical: "Science of Beauty...Naturally."

1. CosmeticDesign.com: Katie Bird, March 24, 2009 Issue
2. CosmeticDesign.com; Simon Pittman, June 17, 2009 Issue
3. CosmeticDesign.com; Simon Pittman, June 17, 2009 Issue
4. CosmeticDesign.com; Katie Bird, March 4, 2009 Issue