1. Make it Broad-Spectrum
Theoretically, a sunscreen can have an SPF of 50 but still have zero Ultraviolet A (UVA) protection. In other words, a person could spend two hours in the sun and show no signs of sunburn. Meanwhile, the longer UVA rays are attacking her skin, leading to cell DNA damage, hyperpigmentation, wrinkles, loss of elasticity, and, in ever-increasing numbers, skin cancer.
For years, the FDA has only required sunscreen manufacturers to test the Ultraviolet B (UVB) protection that gives a sunscreen its SPF, or Sun Protection Factor. But that number only indicates the amount of time a UVB sunscreen will prevent the skin from reddening when exposed to ultraviolet light.
For a sunscreen to be truly effective, it needs to afford broad-spectrum protection by covering a significant percentage of the UVA range, 320-400 nanometers, as well as the Ultraviolet B (UVB) range, 290-320 nanometers.
Earlier this year, the FDA revised its sunscreen monograph to implement new standards that establish a broad-spectrum test for determining a sunscreen’s UVA protection level proportionate to its UVB protection.
Look for a mix of UV filters that, when used in combination, will give your sunscreen both UVA and UVB protection:

UVA filters (320-400 nm)
Zinc Oxide
Titanium Dioxide
Avobenzone
Oxybenzone (Benzophenone)
Dioxybenzone
Ecamsule

UVB filters (290-320 nm)
Zinc Oxide
Titanium Dioxide
Trolamine Salicylate
Homosalate
Octinoxate
Octocrylene
Dioxybenzone
Octisalate
Oxybenzone
Cinoxate

2. Set Your SPF Goals High… But Not Too High
Sunscreens can range from 2 to 50+. The FDA’s newly revised monograph grants products with an SPF 15 or higher certain privileges that lower-rated products do not have. For instance, only products of SPF 15 or greater that pass the broad-spectrum test will be able to state that they are “broad spectrum” on the front label and feature certain label claims attesting to their ability to reduce the risk of skin cancer and early skin aging when used as directed.
On the other hand, products that are either not broad-spectrum or are broad-spectrum but have SPFs lower than 15 will need to carry a skin cancer/skin aging warning statement. “The objective is to encourage manufacturers to produce products that screen both UVA and UVB rays at a sufficient level to guard against skin cancer and the premature signs of aging,” says Gogi Sangha, CEO and president of G.S. Cosmeceutical USA, a Bay Area-based, FDA-registered, cGMP-compliant custom contract manufacturer of facial, body and OTC skincare products, including sunscreens.
While some sunscreen products on the market advertise SPFs of 80, 90 or even 100, the FDA has proposed a new rule capping SPF claims at “50+” or less. The percentage differences between SPF 15 and 30 and particularly between SPF 30 and 50 are negligible. According to the FDA, no sufficient studies to date have demonstrated that SPF values greater than 50 confer any significant extra protection.

3. Add Antioxidants and Other Skin Protectants
The sun assaults the skin daily with a high dose of free radicals that can damage DNA and age the skin faster than any other single factor. Some evidence suggests that even certain ingredients in sunscreens might produce Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) when ultraviolet light reacts with ingredients that have penetrated the skin. One solution is to continue reapplying sunscreen to prevent UV light from reaching the UV filters that have penetrated the skin.
Certain antioxidants and other ingredients can also help to counteract the damaging effects. Red algae contains natural UV-screening compound known as mycosporine-like amino acids that actually absorb UVA light. Studies have shown that this natural material:
 Boosts SPF
 Reduces UV-induced DNA damage in human fibroblasts (the source of our collagen which gives our skin its firmness)
 Prevents loss of firmness
 Increases skin smoothness
 Decreases wrinkles depth
In addition, some published peer-reviewed studies demonstrate that Vitamins C and E work synergistically with sunscreen to offer more protection than sunscreen alone.

4. Select a Proven OTC Manufacturer
Sunscreens making SPF claims fall within the over-the-counter (OTC) category of skincare products. Because the FDA regulates this class of product, sunscreens must be registered as OTC products and contain a label following the accepted Drug Facts format. A contract manufacturer of sunscreens must be FDA-registered, cGMP (Good Manufacturing Practices)-compliant.
In addition, broad-spectrum products must undergo the new FDA SPF testing requirements, which subject each sunscreen to a 10-subject UVB in vivo test and a UVA in vitro test.
Make sure your contract manufacturer has the experience to successfully formulate a SPF product that will pass these rigorous tests, contain your desired ingredients and comply with the FDA’s guidelines.

5. Make Sure Your Product is Covered
Many manufacturers were caught off guard when the FDA announced it would no longer allow companies that market towelettes, wipes, powders, body washes and shampoos to continue making SPF claims.
The agency also prohibited the use of claims referring to products as “waterproof” or “sweatproof.” Rather, these products may bear a “water-resistant” claim and must specify effectiveness against sweating or swimming based on specified testing methods. Sunscreens that are not water-resistant must advise use of a water-resistant sunscreen after swimming or sweating.
Make sure you stay informed with the latest FDA developments and partner with an experienced sunscreen contract manufacturer who can help you navigate the many changes affecting this critical product category.

The Changing Phases of Melanoma
Characterized by the uncontrolled growth of pigment cells, melanoma results in three-quarters of all skin cancer deaths. Incredibly, between 40% and 50% of Americans who live to age 65 will have skin cancer at least once in their life time, according to the National Cancer Institute, Bethesda, MD. Melanomas can evolve from seemingly insignificant moles to potentially fatal growths if left unchecked.

Melanoma goes through four stages:
Stage 0 (in situ): Melanoma is confined to the epidermis.
Stage 1-II: Melanoma is still confined to the skin but is increasing in thickness.
Stage III: Melanoma spreads to one or more nearby lymph nodes.
Stage IV: Melanoma spreads to an internal organ.

A biopsy report can provide an exact diagnosis of melanoma and may also determine its current stage. A dermatologist must assess how deeply the melanoma has traveled and whether it’s spread to other parts of the body. Then, treatment may involve excision to surgically extract the melanoma and cut the skin around it. More serious cases may require Mohs surgery, which is conducted by a specialist with a microscope to remove the growth layer by layer until only healthy tissue remains.

Who’s At Risk?
The first step in prevention is to recognize the risk factors.
Genetic predisposition. A family history of skin cancer, a fair complexion and light eyes are all factors that characterize a genetic predisposition toward melanoma. Specifically, redheads and blondes and blue or green eyes characterize the skin cancer profile. Any immune system deficiency or a previous cancer history can also heighten your risk.
Unusual Moles. Almost everyone has some moles on their body, but if you have more than 50 you may be at substantially increased risk of developing melanoma. A suspicious mole often has irregular borders and color. One half of the mole typically does not match the other half.
An easy way to screen suspicious moles is to use the ABCDE rule:
Asymmetry: If you were to fold the two sides of the mole together, they would not match.
Border irregularity: The edges of the mole are jagged or blurred.
Color: There is a non-uniform color to the mole, which may be tan, brown, black or even white, red or blue in color.
Diameter: Melanomas usually exceed 6 mm in size (about the size of an eraser on a pencil).
Evolving: Any mole that is changing in size, shape or color should be presented to a physician for review.

How to Prevent Melanoma from Forming
Avoid Excess UV Exposure. By far, the greatest step you can take to prevent melanoma is to avoid excessive exposure to ultraviolet radiation. Those who live closest to the equator, where the sunlight is most intense, are at further risk.
Check Your Birthday Suit On Your Birthday. The American Academy of Dermatology recommends everyone perform regular skin self-examinations, even checking your scalp, palms, soles, toenails and between your toes. A seemingly innocent bruise that fades and then reappears or a brown to black streak under a nail can both be signs of melanoma. If you fall into a high-risk group or have a suspicious melanoma, it’s advisable to get a full-body exam at least annually.
Always Wear a Broad-Spectrum Sunscreen. Get in the habit of wearing a broad-spectrum sunscreen of at least SPF 15 daily, even on cloudy, rainy and snowy days. A broad-spectrum sunscreen will filter both UVB (think “B” for burning rays) and UVA rays (think “A” for aging rays). Apply the sunscreen on all exposed skin and reapply every 2 hours while outdoors.
While most sunscreens with a SPF 15 and 30 are capable of preventing you from burning, they may not be affording you the protection against UVA you need to prevent premature signs of aging. Studies show that UVA can penetrate glass, so even those with office jobs who sit by a window all day are not safe from the dangers of UVA rays.
According to Gogi Sangha, CEO and President of G.S. Cosmeceutical USA, Inc., a FDA-registered, cGMP-compliant custom contract manufacturer in Livermore, CA, a good broad-spectrum sunscreen will contain either mineral UV filters, such as zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, or chemical filters, including avobenzone, a FDA-approved UVA-filtering agent.
For best results, choose a sunscreen that is photostable, meaning it won’t break down upon exposure, and is stable under normal conditions as well. At G.S. Cosmeceutical, sunscreens undergo stability testing over 2 to 3 years with accelerated tests for up to 6 months.
Avoid Tanning Beds. Ultraviolet light from tanning beds can cause skin cancer and premature aging. In fact, research shows that indoor tanning can increase a person’s melanoma risk by 75%. If you crave a deeper skin tone, it’s better to use a sunless self-tanner, like a DHT formula that works with the skin’s natural melanin content, says Sangha. Just be aware that a sunless tan does not afford any UV protection. A good broad-spectrum sunscreen is still highly recommended.
Wear Protective Clothing. Wide-brimmed hats, long-sleeved shirts and pants, and UV-protectant sunglasses will help to protect your skin for extended times outdoors.
Take Cover in the Shade. The sun’s rays are strongest between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m. Seek cover indoors or at least in a shaded spot during those hours when the UV index is at its most intense.
Boost Immunity Through Diet. Lastly, you can increase your natural defenses against skin cancer through diet. Citrus fruits, such as lemons, oranges, tangerines and grapefruits, for instance, have been linked to a lowered incidence of skin cancer. Foods high in beta carotene, including sweet potatoes and carrots; cruciferous vegetables like cabbage, broccoli and cauliflower; garlic; and green tea are all great immune boosters.
By practicing good prevention and diagnostic measures, you can protect yourself against skin cancer and be among the other half living life skin cancer-free.

Blending the Best of Science and Nature
Many of today’s actives continue to pull rank on their more natural counterparts in ingredients’ listing to help firm skin; stimulate collagen and elastin production; and smooth the appearance of lines and wrinkles. Yet in the consumers’ quest for more natural ingredients, many raw material suppliers are finding plant-based alternatives for conventional ingredients. For example, Cognis’ Laboratoires Serobiologiques recently introduced Actiwhite, a natural whitener and hydroquinone alternative derived from green peas, and Myoxinol, a hibiscus-derived peptide offering a Botox-like, muscle-relaxing effect.
Likewise, Lipotec of Spain has come out with Antarctacine, a natural, Ecocert-certified moisturizer and collagen/elastin booster derived from microorganisms found in Antarctic glaciers.
Most recently, Iceland-based ORF Genetics launched the first plant-based growth factors produced from barley seeds, offering an alternative to traditional growth factors derived from E. coli, yeast and animal cells.
Organics too are becoming more readily available; however, formulating a certified organic water-based formula that meets the USDA National Organics Program (NOP) 95% certified organic standards can be challenging. For instance, with water-based formulations, you must have a preservative that is capable of killing the microbes that grow in a water environment. However, as Sangha explains, many such preservatives, such as phenoxyethanol, are not permitted by the USDA on their approved non-organic list, and those organic preservatives that are permitted, such as organic alcohol or potassium sorbate, are beset by other issues, such as odor or lack of efficacy in a hydrous formula.
For this reason, more skincare companies are formulating to a 70% “made with organics” level or are turning to hybrid formulations that combine organic plant extracts with the heavy lifters of the cosmeceutical world.
Manufacturing such products requires a formulator experienced in both organics and actives, notes Sangha, who is well-versed in formulating with both certified organic ingredients as well as actives including retinol, peptides, plant stem cells and lightening agents.
For best results, also look for a manufacturer who is FDA registered, compliant with Good Manufacturing Practices (cGMP) and accredited as a USDA NOP certified organic handler. These areas of distinctions will help hold the contract manufacturer to a higher standard in their formulation and manufacturing practices.

August 24, 2010 - As a skincare company preparing to launch a new product, the selection of a contract manufacturer can present one of the most daunting tasks in the product development process. .All choices may look good on paper, but the results can vary widely — sometimes at great risk and expense to the unsuspecting startup.

Whereas a good contract manufacturer will help ensure the timely launch of a quality product formulated with cutting-edge ingredients, the wrong decision can result in a product line lacking consumer appeal or, worse, one that is unstable and contaminated.

To be sure your product launch runs smoothly and exceeds expectations, look for these characteristics in a skincare contract manufacturer:

FDA-Registered, cGMP-Compliant. The recent introduction of the Safe Cosmetics Act of 2010 will present new challenges to some skincare contract manufacturers who are not prepared to weather the changes. This critical new legislation proposes full ingredient disclosure, data sharing and, most importantly, closer FDA control over the cosmetics industry.

To be sure you’re in capable hands, look for an FDA-registered, cGMP-compliant contract manufacturer. Only these facilities are required to ascribe to federally regulated “Good Manufacturing Practices” as set forth by the FDA. The “c” before the GMP symbolizes “current,” meaning cGMP-compliant contract manufacturers stay abreast of the latest changes in manufacturing and quality processes and must pass the most current, stringent FDA audits to remain compliant.

GMP facilities are required to keep detailed logs of all raw materials and packaging components used during the manufacturing process. Under this process, manufacturers must quarantine and test incoming materials and packaging components for quality; abide by Standard Operating Procedures (SOPs) for consistency; and staff each procedure with two employees to attain the highest level of accuracy when weighing materials and conducting other important tasks.

In addition, GMP facilities write detailed step-by-step procedures; follow written procedures to prevent contamination; document work for compliance and traceability; and protect products against contamination by making cleanliness a daily ritual in the manufacturing plant.

Stays Current on Emerging Technologies. If your contract manufacturer is still pushing AHAs as the latest, greatest anti-aging technology, then you’re most likely experiencing a disconnect between the trends of today’s skincare market and what your R&D department is stirring up in the lab. A good contract manufacturer will maintain constant communication with suppliers and industry organizations to stay on top of the latest developments in raw materials and treatment of skin conditions.

Most importantly, the contract manufacturer must be willing to share this information with its current and prospective clients to allow brand developers the opportunity to seize the most current technology and bring it to market. G.S. Cosmeceutical USA, Inc., of Livermore, CA, for instance, shares the latest data on brighteners, wrinkle relaxers, peptides and anti-aging topicals with a wide array of clientele, ranging from spa startups and physicians to pharmaceutical corporations looking to roll out a new OTC line.

Financially Stable. A good contract manufacturer is financially stable and willing to expand based on client requirements. The manufacturer should have a growth plan in place and sustain growth by providing the latest equipment, space and training as needed.

Won’t Compete with Your Product Line. Many contract manufacturers sport a private label division in addition to their custom contract manufacturing operation. While the manufacturer may purport to keep these two divisions separate, many custom clients, unfortunately, find their concepts ending up as a private label product — even after they signed a confidentiality disclosure agreement. To be sure, look for a contract manufacturer who only formulates custom products for its clients — not its catalog — and maintains a track record for the highest level of client retention and integrity.

Provides Marketing Support. Most contract manufacturers stick to the science of product formulation and manufacturing, leaving the marketing of the product to the brand. While traditional marketing tasks, such as advertising and press releases, are indeed typically handled by the brand, a well-rounded contract manufacturer will help you develop your marketing “story” by tailoring ingredients to your individual concept. Some contract manufacturers, such as G.S. Cosmeceutical, will even help finesse your label copy, source packaging and provide other marketing tasks as a comprehensive service.

In today’s competitive skincare market, the selection of a contract manufacturer is more important than ever. Learn all of your options and take the time to develop a relationship with the chemists and support staff members who will help guide your product along its journey to success.

About G.S. Cosmeceutical USA, Inc.
G.S. Cosmeceutical USA, Inc. is a privately-owned contract manufacturing company. Headquartered in Livermore, California, the company is a leader in providing R&D, manufacturing and warehousing services to physicians, cosmetic entrepreneurs, corporate manufacturers, beauty start-ups and leading professionals in the spa and beauty industry. The company formulates across a broad range of categories, including anti-aging skincare, body care and hair care, organic- and natural-based products, paraben-free cosmetics and over-the-counter (OTC) cosmeceutical products.
For additional information on the release, please contact Andrea Sercu, Marketing Manager, at G.S. Cosmeceutical USA, Inc. at andrea@gscos.com or by calling 925-583-1426.

May 18, 2010, Livermore, California – When a group of British researchers analyzed a small sample of breast cancer tumors and discovered parabens in 18 of the 20 samples, their 2004 published study set off a public outcry against the preservatives found commonly in topical cosmetics and body care products.
As a result of the study, manufacturers scrambled to reformulate their cosmetic products. Parabens, such as methylparaben, propylparaben, ethylparaben and butylparaben, as well as their iso derivatives, were stricken from INCI lists and replaced with paraben-free preservative systems. Companies parlaying a paraben-containing shampoo, conditioner, facial moisturizer or cleanser were black-listed by some cosmetic bloggers, and consumers scoured cosmetic labels for the “P” word.
Despite the implications of that Journal of Applied Toxicology study, many questions remain today. Are parabens really that hazardous to our health, or are these once-popular preservatives just getting a bad rap?

The Paraben Paradox
On one hand, the UK-based study demonstrated that parabens are capable of penetrating the skin and accumulating in the body’s tissue fully intact. In general, parabens are known to exert weak estrogen-like activity and may lead to gene expression that causes breast tumor cells to grow.
However, the British study did not examine potential paraben levels in normal tissue. And while it is true that parabens can mimic estrogen activity, a 1998 Toxicology and Applied Pharmacology study concluded that the most potent paraben, butylparaben, demonstrated 10,000- to 100,000-fold less activity than naturally occurring estradiol. Furthermore, a 2005 Critical Reviews in Toxicology report found that parabens — even at maximum daily exposure estimates — could not increase the risk associated with estrogenic chemicals.

Parabens and Alternative Preservatives
Since the 1920s, parabens have been used widely as highly effective preservative systems in cosmetics to maintain product shelf life and to protect consumers against microbial growth.
These broad-spectrum preservatives can be found in a wide variety of food and products. They are found naturally in blueberries and even the human bloodstream as a byproduct of the amino acid tyrosine.
In cosmetics, parabens are used at low levels – generally at less than 0.2%, though they are often used in combination and, as demonstrated by the British study, may bioaccumulate in the body.
With all of the questions surrounding parabens, more contract manufacturers such as Livermore, California-based G.S. Cosmeceutical USA, Inc., are now offering safe, alternative preservatives as an option to maintain product safety, stability and shelf life.
According to G.S. Cosmeceutical CEO and Chief Scientific Officer Gogi Sangha, several variables, including a product’s pH level and water content, help determine the preservative system best suited for any given product.
Where parabens are not an option, one good alternative is a preservative system that incorporates phenoxyethanol, a synthetic preservative with a chemical makeup based on a natural antibacterial chemical found in the sage plant.
Ethylhexylglycerin is another choice, though this synthetic compound also must be paired with another preservative to maintain a high enough efficacy of microbial protection.
In recent years, the organic and natural ingredient movement has sparked a demand for food-grade and organic preservatives. Grain alcohol, for instance, is available in an organic version and can work independently in a formulation. Grain alcohol is also accepted by many associations, including the Natural Products Association (NPA).
The only downside is the perception of the word “alcohol,” which many equate with drying of the skin, though this can be countered by increasing the moisturizing ingredients in the formula.
Sodium dehydroacetate, potassium sorbate and sodium benzoate are popular “food-grade” choices. While these popular “safe enough to eat” choices tell a great marketing story, it’s important that consumers and skincare companies know that they can be ineffective in some formulations, particularly water-based products where the potential for microbial growth is much higher than anhydrous formulations. In those cases, “natural” is not always best. While you might have a cream or serum that’s free of parabens, the product could pose even greater danger to a consumer’s health if it’s contaminated with microbial organisms!
To date, major U.S. health, regulatory and cancer organizations, including the FDA and the American Cancer Society, have not found enough evidence to warrant a ban on parabens.
Nevertheless, the preliminary findings offer some cause for concern, and most agree that larger studies are needed to elucidate the long-term implications of parabens as cosmetic preservatives and what effect they might have on our health.

G.S. Cosmeceutical Explains the Proposed Regulations and What They Mean to Manufacturers

Livermore, CA, April 30, 2010 — The dangers of outdoor UV exposure have been well-documented for years. But did you know that for the past 70 years, melanoma has been steadily on the rise among fair-skinned, indoor workers?

While the hazards of outdoor solar exposure have long been blamed for skin cancer and premature signs of aging, an FDA study may have us now taking cover in our homes and workplaces as new light is shed on the dangers of indoor UVA exposure.

In their research, Dianne Godar and colleagues from the FDA’s Center for Devices and Radiological Health noted that although indoor workers with lighter skin types typically receive 3 to 9 times less solar UV exposure than their outdoor counterparts, only the indoor group demonstrated an increased incidence of malignant skin cancer. As a result, the scientists theorize that the UVA light penetrating building windows may lead to mutations and a breakdown in Vitamin D(3), which would otherwise help protect the skin against melanoma.

“For years, we’ve known that UVB promotes sunburns, and we now know that UVA light is the ultraviolet wavelength responsible for the deeper skin damage that promotes premature signs of aging,” says Gogi Sangha, CEO and Chief Scientific Officer of G.S. Cosmeceutical USA, a San Francisco Bay Area-based contract manufacturer of anti-aging cosmeceuticals, broad-spectrum sunscreens, and bath and body products. “This new research only serves to further emphasize the importance of broad-spectrum sunscreens that protect against both UVA and UVB light.”

Still, only about one in five all-day moisturizers that advertise SPF protection actually guard against UVA rays, according to the Environmental Working Group (EWG), a non-profit environmental watchdog organization.

That could change, however, with an impending new set of FDA-proposed sunscreen guidelines, which, for the first time in history, will require manufacturers to disclose their products’ UVA protection levels.

The FDA 4-Star Rating System
Among the more significant changes the FDA plans to implement include a four-star rating system for UVA protection that would be based on both in vitro and in vivo tests and incorporate a measurement of photostability.

Manufacturers would be required to include the four-star rating on their sunscreen labels and would face new restrictions in what they can and cannot say on labels. For instance, the proposed guidelines would prohibit claims such as “chemical-free,” “waterproof,” “helps prevent skin damage,” or any SPF designation greater than 50.

SPF would no longer stand for “Sun Protection Factor” but, rather, “Sunburn Protection Factor” to clarify its use as a measurement of only UVB, the rays responsible for sunburns but not the premature signs of aging or skin cancer, which is mostly attributed to UVA.

According to Sangha, more cutting-edge ingredients are becoming available, enabling the development of true broad-spectrum sunscreens that go beyond UV protection to afford real anti-aging benefits. For instance, G.S. Cosmeceutical, a FDA-registered, cGMP (Good Manufacturing Practices)-compliant contract manufacturer authorized to produce OTC sunscreens, formulates with good-for-you skin ingredients like phytomelanin, a plant-based, antioxidant-rich melanin source derived from the date palm; HelioGuard™ from the red algae Porphyra umbilicalis; and photosomes with encapsulated DNA repair enzymes derived from plankton.

Because certain sea life, including the aforementioned plankton and algae, must adapt to a harsh environment of constant UV exposure, they possess a natural photoprotection that has real human applications. Photosomes, for example, have demonstrated an ability to improve sun-damaged skin in clinical research.

Vitamins C and E can also provide a natural boost to the photoprotection, Sangha says. Researchers from Duke University found a combination of 15% L-ascorbic acid and 1% α-tocopherol exhibited excellent protection against erythema and sunburn cell formation. While each vitamin demonstrated photoprotection independently, a combination demonstrated superior performance.

Covering the Sunscreen Spectrum
For the highest level of protection, choose a sunscreen that covers a wide range across the UVB (290-320 nanometers) and UVA (320-400 nm) wavelength spectrum. You’ll also want to make sure the formula is photostable, meaning it won’t break down readily upon exposure, and stable under normal conditions. At G.S. Cosmeceutical, sunscreens are tested via standardized accelerated tests for 2-3 months and verified over 1 1/2 to 3 years.
A good sunscreen will offer anti-aging protection as well. Following are a few commonly used sunscreen ingredients and their protective range in nanometers:

Avobenzone 340-375 nm
Mexoryl 290-400 nm
Octinoxate 280-320 nm
Oxybenzone 288-326 nm
Titanium Dioxide 290-340 nm
Zinc Oxide 290-380 nm

____________________________
How Sunscreen Savvy Are You?
Many misconceptions persist in sunscreen labeling today. Test your sunscreen savvy with this true/false quiz:

True or False: The higher the SPF, the more likely the sunscreen will protect against both UVA and UVB rays.
False! Many consumers today unwittingly purchase SPF 30 products, believing they’re receiving “broad-spectrum” UVA and UVB sun protection when they’re often receiving inadequate, if any, protection against UVA rays. That’s because the SPF (Sun Protection Factor) only measures UVB rays, a short-wave radiation that causes sunburn with wavelengths of 290-320 nanometers on the UV spectrum, whereas the longer UVA rays cause most premature skin aging and skin cancer. To get a true broad-spectrum sunscreen, look for a product with ingredients that specifically protect against UVA rays, such as avobenzone, zinc oxide and, to some extent, titanium dioxide.

True or False: A SPF 50 sunscreen will provide significantly more protection than an SPF 30.
False! A sunscreen rating higher than SPF 30 does not necessarily equate to significant higher protection. A SPF 30 confers about 97% protection against UVB rays, whereas a SPF 50 only nets you about 1 to 2 additional percentage points.

True or False: Only “waterproof” sunscreens will truly last all day and need no reapplication.
False! All sunscreens need to be reapplied. The simple acts of sweating and chafing of skin make reapplication of between 20 minutes and every two hours necessary.

True or False: Micronized and nano-scale zinc oxide and titanium dioxide offer strong UVA protection and do not pose a health hazard.
True! According to the EWG, repeated studies have found that these ingredients do not penetrate healthy skin when applied topically. Micronized and non-scale minerals enable formulators to create sunscreens with comprehensive protection and a less white topical appearance.

For the highest level of protection, consumers need to always complement sunscreen use with protective clothing, including a wide-brimmed hat, and limited exposure.

Retinyl Palmitate (or Retinyl Acetate) → Retinol → Retinoic Acid

All eventually convert in the body to retinoic acid, the active form of Vitamin A, but the conversion process and potential irritation they cause in the skin can vary. As a rule, the ester (lipid-based) forms farthest to the left are the most stable and cause the least irritation. But they also take the longest to convert to retinoic acid, the bioactive form used by the skin, and therefore may be least effective. Conversely, the more active the form, such as a pharmaceutical retinoic acid at a 025%, .05% or 0.1% level, the Vitamin A is less stable and carries a higher potential for irritation.
Indeed, many skincare clients eagerly seek out the benefits Vitamin A retinols offer but all too soon shelve the cream or serum once the peeling, redness and irritation develops.
Fortunately, experts today have identified delivery systems that make stability, penetration, bioavailability and, yes, less irritation all possible. The R&D team at G.S. Cosmeceutical USA, Inc., in Livermore, CA, for instance, has perfected delivery systems that either entrap or encapsulate the more active forms of retinol in polymer systems that create a more stable, more active and more bioavailable form of Vitamin A with minimal irritation. These entrapment and encapsulation delivery systems also provide a time-release effect to feed the skin the benefits of the retinol over a prolonged period.
“The key is the delivery system, which stabilizes the formula while still working with in a free form to derive its maximum benefits,” says Irvaz Husic, Product Development Manager, at G.S. Cosmeceutical USA.
Retinol, a material that’s highly sensitive to light and air, requires precise working conditions to maintain its integrity. At G.S. Cosmeceutical, this custom contract manufacturer processes retinol under fluorescent yellow lights and nitrogen gas to protect the material from reacting. “We have special lights designed to help stabilize retinol in processing, which would otherwise oxidize faster under the normal white lights,” says Husic. “Using a blanketing process with nitrogen helps create less concentration of the oxygen and thus lowers the incidence of oxidation.”
Companion ingredients in the formulation, such as aloe vera, chamomile, bisabolol, Vitamin E and natural anti-inflammatories, also help offset irritation.
By perfecting the formulation with the precise ingredients and delivery system, the researchers at G.S. Cosmeceutical have been able to attain as high as 1% pure retinol formula where indicated, as well as 0.1% or less optimal concentration.
While others wait for the latest, greatest anti-aging topical to emerge, skincare professionals know that one of the best active topicals has actually existed for some time — retinol, still setting the gold standard in anti-aging skincare.

CEO and Chief Scientific Officer of G.S. Cosmeceutical USA, Inc.

 In the Eighties, antioxidants heralded a new age in skincare with a host of free radical fighters that afforded broad-reaching protection against future signs of aging.

Alpha hydroxy acids came along to accelerate exfoliation and rejuvenate skin, while peptides emerged in the late Nineties to gain new ground with preparations that help repair damaged cells, relax wrinkles and build collagen.

Today, the arrival of plant stem cells in topical skincare carries a new mission: the ability to not only protect, prevent and repair aging skin cells but to actually replace lost and damaged cells with healthy new skin cells. Already, the applications are yielding dramatic results with newfound promise of revolutionizing the skincare industry in ways never before realized.

 An Apple a Day Keeps Signs of Aging Away

As we age, the turnover of human epidermal stem cells begins to slow. Over time, these critical cells function less efficiently. Hindered by a finite number of potential cell divisions, lost and dying cells start to outnumber fresh new cells, and, sooner than later, they culminate in signs of aging.

Plant stem cells, however, have the ability to divide over many generations and the unique capacity to stimulate and protect human stem cells. The results are a reduction in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, collagen loss and other common signs of aging.

The most common plant-derived stem cell used in skincare today is the Swiss Uttwiler Spätlauber apple. First cultivated in the 18^th century for its hardy, long-lasting fruit, this tannin-rich fruit offers a rich source of anti-aging activity.

By forming small wounds in “explants” of the stem cell tissue, scientists are able to stimulate large cell masses known as calluses, which contain the “unprogrammed” and undifferentiated cells of the plant. It is within these “blank canvases” that exciting, new applications in skincare yield promise, including the ability to increase the longevity of human skin cells and stimulate new ones.

In a Swiss in-house study published in the SOFW Journal in 2008¹, scientists showed that a 0.1% concentration of stem cells extracted from the Uttwiler Spätlauber apple stimulated the proliferation of human stem cells by 80%.

In followup experiments, the scientists irradiated a human stem cell sample with UV light. While nearly half of the cultured stem cells died when exposed to the UV light, the number of living cells grown in the culture containing the apple extract experienced only a small decrease.

Further Swiss studies showed that incubating fibroblast cells — the building blocks of collagen and other skin structural tissue proteins — in a 2% Uttwiler Spätlauber apple extract neutralized factors that lead to aging and, in some cases, actually reversed the process.

 Additional Plant Stem Cells Showing Promise

A wide range of plant stem cells, including extracts from edelweiss, echinacea, gotu kola and several lilac varietals, may offer significant future skincare applications.

For instance, edelweiss, an Alpine flower with a special affinity to survive extreme altitudes and solar radiation exposure, offers potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits. Edelweiss stem cells inhibit the enzymes that break down hyaluronic acid and collagen.

To illustrate, a cream with 1% edelweiss stem cells used twice daily reduced wrinkle depth of the eye contour area by 15% after 20 days of treatment in a clinical study involving 20 individuals.

The stem cells from echinacea, a botanical revered for its immune-strengthening properties, have also demonstrated an ability to inhibit collagenase, the enzyme that breaks down collagen, while stimulating the synthesis of new collagen in vitro.

Likewise, stem cells from the gotu kola plant, also known as tiger grass, have been shown to decrease the skin-degrading enzyme, hyaluronidase, by up to 90% and therefore retain the skin’s hyaluronic acid, a key extracellular matrix ingredient responsible for hydration and elasticity.

Other plant-derived stem cells may offer new applications in fighting acne. Syringa vulgaris L., otherwise known as common lilac, has been shown to inhibit 5α-reductase, an enzyme involved in sebum production, as well as decrease the pro-inflammatory chemokine IL-8. In clinical studies, a cream containing 1% of a patented plant stem cell extract reduced lesions in 29 acne patients by 40% in 30 days and showed a significant decrease in inflammation and melanin pigmentation.

By combining these plant-derived stem cells with other anti-aging actives, such as peptides, proteins and cell-active folic acid, we can rejuvenate skin cell DNA, the core center for all cell renewal processes, and literally give aging skin a fresh new start.

Gurpreet “Gogi” Sangha is the CEO and Chief Scientific Officer of G.S. Cosmeceutical USA, Inc., a Livermore, CA-based contract manufacturer of anti-aging skin care, body care, hair care, natural and organic-based products, and OTC cosmeceuticals. G.S. Cosmeceutical provides R&D, manufacturing and warehousing services to physicians, cosmetic entrepreneurs, corporate manufacturers, beauty start-ups and leading professionals in the spa and beauty industry.

For more information about G.S. Cosmeceutical USA, Inc., please visit www.gscos.com or call 925-583-1426.

 Source: Schmid D, Schurch P, Belser E, Zülli F. Plant Stem Extract for Cell Longevity of Skin and Hair. SOFW Journal. 2008;134(5):30-5.

G.S. Cosmeceutical USA, Inc.

Every decade has its particular “star technologies”; historic breakthroughs that can be credited for fueling the growth and advancement of our beloved and ever-evolving skincare industry. In the eighties, we heralded the birth of AHA’s to accelerate our collective, ever-slowing, cell renewal process. The popularity of fruity acids resounded globally, as skincare obsessive’s around the globe eagerly celebrated the arrival of younger, fresher-looking skin. In the nineties, industry enthusiasts coveted new, super-potent wrinkle-fighting ingredients which sourced a fresh breed of mega anti-oxidants, including Co-Q10 and Idebenone, a highly efficacious, skin regenerative, free radical warrior.

Alpha Hydroxy based products, popular in the eighties and nineties, remain very popular today.

By the late nineties and into the new millennium, our industry began to re-focus its attention and resources on two highly diverse fronts, one natural…the other synthetic. On the natural end of things, cosmetic formulators began touting the amazing preventative and restorative powers of mega-potent food and berry extracts: including Polyphenols (Resveratrol), Pomegranate Extract, Acai Berry, Blueberries and Mangosteen.

Resveratrol has proven to be one of the most highly sought after natural anti-oxidants in formulations today.

The broad endorsement of Peptide Technology has been striking. It is not simply cosmetic researchers, formulators and beauty editors who have become modern evangelists for Peptides, it is Dermatologists as well.

Peptides are lab engineered, bio-available, amino acid chains that direct the skin to take action!

Indeed, a recent article in CosmeticDesign.com confirms that these trained physicians…“see the potential for bioactive peptide ingredients in cosmetics as ‘immense’ due to their (Peptides) highly targeted and flexible nature”.¹

So, what are peptides exactly… and, why have so many new breakthrough products released over the past decade been formulated and manufactured to showcase these sophisticated anti-aging chemicals?

According to a study led by the Kline Group, a leading beauty industry research firm; “Peptides are anti-aging focused chemicals, synthetics, which claim to bring pharmaceutical strength technology to non-prescription products.” “In essence, they are pharma grade anti-aging ingredients packed into ”² The Kline Group believes “that the global anti-aging phenomenon has been the key driving force behind the enormous growth in the skin care segment in recent years, which in turn has led to the development of a plethora of innovative chemicals, including a virtual smorgasbord of Peptides for skincare innovators to choose from”.³

The anti-aging trend was the catalyst for the development of Peptides; sophisticated chemicals offering targeted anti-aging solutions.

Others define Peptides in much more simplistic ways. Peptides function as messengers in the skin, allowing the epidermis and dermis to communicate more efficiently. This is important, because one of the key effects of aging is reduced communication within the skin, resulting in decreased collagen production and an aggregation of degraded elastin fibers. Decreased collagen production (less supportive, firming fibers), coupled with degraded elastin (diminished skin elasticity and flexibility) combine exponentially to produce classic visible signs of aging; including thinner skin, fine and deep wrinkles, sagging and flaccidity and overall loss of skin ‘tone’.

Classic signs of both intrinsic and photo-aging: loss of firmness, wrinkles and sagging.

The great news is that these ‘mini or abbreviated proteins’ (Peptides) can be created in lab to be highly active, influential molecules, which can direct the cells in our body to take specific actions. While there are many different types of peptides, those that are used in skincare are synthetically engineered to enter the cells of the skin and remain intact. Once in the skin, they are able to communicate and direct the skin cells to behave in a certain way. For example, they can direct the cells to produce new healthy collagen and/or elastin fibers…causing the epidermis to appear thicker, smoother and younger! This helps to explain why Peptide Technology is ultra desirable and can command significantly higher prices, when embedded into your standard anti-aging formulations.

Current research indicates that the popularity of Peptides is due in part, to

Matrixyl, a favorite of anti-aging chemists, shows statistically significant reduction in 'wrinkle depth'.

the fact that these molecules can be “tinkered with” or “customized” fairly easily. For example, there are several Peptides out there that have been designed to ‘tell’ the skin to produce more collagen and hyaluronic acid. The most famous of the anti-aging Peptides is one with an INCI name of Palmitoyl Pentapeptide; but commonly known as Matrixyl. Originally developed for use on stretch marks, Matrixyl has also been used to promote more rapid healing of skin wounds. Manufacturers of formulas containing this Peptide claim statistically significant improvements in the reduction of deep wrinkles and the disappearance of small and fine wrinkles.

Then there are the peptides which are positioned as topical alternatives to Botox™. Consider Acetyl Hexapeptide (INCI), which many know as Argireline. By claiming to relax certain types of facial wrinkles by blocking the release of neurotransmitters, this trendy anti-aging Peptide has spearheaded the development of an entirely new category of Peptides

Neuro-Peptides: a network of amino acids.

known as “Neuropeptides”. A clinical study published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science reported that when used at a 10% concentration level, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 actually reduced wrinkle depth by up to 30 percent—after 30 days of continuous use. And to top that off, there is clinical evidence that this small Peptide may even deter wrinkles from forming in the first place! Imagine that! While not Botox™ by any stretch of the imagination, one must admit that this designer chemical can be viewed as a formidable opponent to our most obvious sign of aging: The Wrinkle!

But, let’s not stop there… Excited chemists decided to offer Argireline a synergistic soul mate (of sorts) to partner with on tough anti-aging jobs.

Aging can be beautiful, thanks to Peptide Technology!

Hence, the birth of Leuphasyl®, or Pentapeptide-3 (INCI). Working hand-in-peptide with Argireline, the two custom chemicals collaborate perfectly to reduce the depth of wrinkles on the face, especially in the forehead area and around the eyes, where we need it the most.

Speaking of necessity… collective need and strong global market demand remain the mothers of invention for the skincare industry. Concerns by millions of image conscious Baby Boomers and Post-Boomers, (as well as a solid segment of Generation X’ers seeking precautionary anti-aging treatments) led Cosmetic Researchers to design yet another highly specialized peptide known as Hexapeptide-10 (INCI). This breakthrough Peptide was engineered to improve cell adhesion and as a result, reduce the loss of skin firmness (sagging). Also known as ‘Serilesine’ this Peptide multi-tasks effectively, to concurrently reduce dryness and yellowing of skin tone.

Industry insiders predict that a virtual parade of these lab-engineered genies will continue to inspire for years to come.

Peptide research is advancing at breathtaking speed. Few doubt that these highly specialized synthetic proteins will cease to be the ‘it factor’ of cosmetic compounding any time soon. Industry insiders predict that a virtual parade of these lab-engineered genies will continue to inspire, enrich an influence the thinking and methodologies of skincare manufacturers for decades to come.

Consider the possibilities… While today, cutting-edge, anti-wrinkle Peptides like (Syn®-Ake) are lab-engineered to mimic the effects of Viper Snakes… the Peptides of the future could have even broader and considerably more inventive applications.

Imagine injectable Peptides, that would encourage your skin to generate needed fat.

In fact, researchers from the Lawrence Berkeley National Laboratory are currently in the early stages of work on a new Peptide-based technology to replace dermal filler injections and cosmetic surgery procedures. They believe that an injectable peptide could be created to induce growth of fat under the skin. This would allow us to literally plump-up our own aging skin with the body’s own fat, indigenous to the skin itself!⁴

And what, you may ask; does the scientific community really think about this explosive technology that has gracefully commandeered centre stage over the past decade?

At G.S. Cosmeceutical, a San Francisco Bay Area custom-contract- manufacturer of skincare and other cosmeceutical products, Owner and Chief Science Officer Gogi Sangha weighs in on the subject, pondering the timeless connection and inherent synergism between beauty and science, stating:

Gogi Sangha is the Founder, CEO and CSO of G.S. Cosmeceutical in Livermore, California.

G. S. Cosmeceutical USA, INC. is known for offering it's clients customized Peptide formulations.

G.S.Cosmeceutical: "Science of Beauty...Naturally."

1. CosmeticDesign.com: Katie Bird, March 24, 2009 Issue
2. CosmeticDesign.com; Simon Pittman, June 17, 2009 Issue
3. CosmeticDesign.com; Simon Pittman, June 17, 2009 Issue
4. CosmeticDesign.com; Katie Bird, March 4, 2009 Issue

By VP of Global Sales and Marketing, G.S. Cosmeceutical USA, Inc.

Can you recall that simple catch phrase…the one about “working smarter, not harder”?While you may not have heard this folksy truism much during Med School, your MBA program or your tenure at the Esthetics’s Academy, this phrase has taken on new meaning for many financially savvy health care professionals, spa owners and aesthetic service providers, eager to become cash positive in today’s recessed economic environment of managed health care and third-party reimbursement.

In fact, astute Physicians, Spa Owners and Estheticians have discovered a way to work smarter and grow faster, by dispensing their own proprietary cosmeceuticals and OTC products, on-site.

Statistics indicate that the availability of high-end, nicely packaged cosmeceuticals complementing aesthetic or dermatologic treatments offered at a spa or medical facility can produce significant increases in profits, as well as unexpected boost to the business’s financial immune system.

Extend your professional services and profits by sending your patients home with custom formulated skincare products.

And, if these upscale skincare products are priced correctly, marketed aggressively, explained clearly and recommended consistently by you and your staff, they may truly prove to be the real ‘pot of gold’ at the end of the rainbow! Indeed, the magnetic allure of a well-branded skincare (or OTC product line) that is known to have been conceived and developed by you, can be capable of attracting a considerable amount of new foot traffic, successful in providing those already loyal to you a compelling reason to return more often…. and highly persuasive in providing a reason for your fans to spend more (than before) during each visit.

Now if you are an intuitive retailer at heart, you’ll appreciate the enormous value of head count acquisition, average ticket size and frequency of return-rate. And…let’s not allow semantics to get in the way. Whether you call the object-of-your-care a “patient”, “client”, “guest” or “customer”, you know that the key to your medical practice or spa remaining financially healthy is based on your ability to attract new folks and retain the fans you have in your client base.. By offering your very own line of products… exclusive, elegant, innovative, efficacious products… you’ll do just that! In fact, the benefits and financial rewards that your own exclusive product line can provide will grow exponentially over time! Once you and your staff become true believers and product evangelists… you’ll experience incremental revenue streams and profits that were once unimaginable. And remember, the best part of this whole scenario is that “retail is, and always will be, a cash-based business!”

In fact, tens of thousands of medical and aesthetic professionals understand the economic potential that comes with the sales and distribution of products on-site, on-line or through third party distribution channels, and have already gone about setting up their own thriving skin care, baby care, hair care or pet care businesses. Some have turned to Private Label Manufacturers to provide them with stock (in-house) formulations and packaging, in an effort to save on time, as well as formulation, packaging and manufacturing costs.

But for just a bit more of an investment in time, money and effort, you can have your products made and formulated from scratch, to meet your own exact standards, preferences and expectations. Perhaps that is why more physicians and skincare entrepreneurs are now hiring “custom” contract manufacturers to develop truly unique and proprietary products for them. One such custom, contract manufacturer is G.S. Cosmeceutical USA, Inc., a moderately-sized, FDA-certified GMP Manufacturer of cosmeceuticals and OTC’s (Over-The-Counter Drug Products) which was founded by Organic Chemist and Cosmetic Researcher, Gogi Sangha.

Gogi Sangha, CEO and Owner of G. S. Cosmeceutical USA, Inc.

“GSC” is known for providing Dermatologists, Physicians, Estheticians, Cosmetic Entrepreneurs and Spa Proprietors a means by which to manifest their skin care and sun care dreams.

G.S. Cosmeceutical Headquarters in Livermore, California

Located in the beautiful San Francisco Bay Area, the GSC Formulation Team begins each project, (figuratively) with a clean slate. They first seek to understand the client’s specific and unique product vision. With the end in mind, the team then cooks up a recipe of carefully selected raw materials, merged with innovative technologies and precisely chosen botanicals and actives, to meet the client’s proprietary specs. The results deliver one-of-a-kind custom skin care, sun care, hair care or baby care formulas which are fresh and utterly distinct.

Which takes us back full circle to that simple, but brilliant concept that we started with: “Working Smarter, Not Harder”— in an effort to forge ahead financially now and in years to come. But, “working smarter” is a strategy that will require hard work! It will demand that you have the mental fortitude, strength, courage and willingness to take new steps and engage in actions that will move you off of the proverbial practice plateau or out from under the business depression/regression mind-set, into a stage of innovation. You’ll need to try something new, in order to garner new results. So, what are you waiting for? Join the gold rush; infuse cash back into your spa business or practice by giving your “fans” the products they are already clamoring for. For, if not YOU, then WHO will give them what they really want?

Hit your revenue goals by dispensing your own custom line of skincare, OTC's, or spa products at your business or practice!